I rarely visit the same restaurant twice, unless it’s in my neighborhood. I especially don’t care to review the same restaurant twice on my blog. But occasionally there is a restaurant so unique that it deserves a double mention.
Such is Cookshop.
My previous review covers Cookshop’s locally and seasonally inspired lunch menu. It describes the relaxed, breezy dining room. But it doesn’t go over any of the brunch items.
And, as good as lunch was, brunch was even better.
Grapefruit Brulee with Creme Fraiche and Brown Sugar
This is why you cook seasonally. Grapefruit is at its peak right now – tart, juicy, without a trace of bitterness. By covering it with brown sugar and broiling it until the surface was crispy and sugary, the fruit tasted incredibly juicy and fresh. Serving it with creamy creme fraiche and a scattering of earthy fresh mint grounded the dish, making it complex and well rounded. Though there could have been a bit more char and crackly crunch on the top of the grapefruit, the combination of sour, sweet, crunchy, and creamy was a great way to start the meal.
Griddled Cheese with Cabot Cheddar, Candied Pecans, Honeycrisp Apples, Fries, and Salad
This was a simple but great grilled cheese sandwich. Crunchy bread, sharp cheddar cheese, juicy apples, sweet pecans, and a healthy dose of piquant grainy mustard. The mustard really made this dish, and brought out the savory, salty elements of the cheese. The apples could have been sliced a bit thinner on a mandolin, but the tart, fresh flavor was excellent.The lightly dressed greens on the side were pristine and seasonal with bitter frisee and spicy radishes. And fries are just always awesome.
That’s my official food blogger stance on fries.
Huevos Rancheros with Eggs, Black Beans, Ranchero Sauce, Monterey Jack Cheese, Lime Creme Fraiche, Pickled Jalapenos and Onions, and Crispy Tortilla Strips
This is it. This is the reason you come here for brunch. A huge ceramic platter came to the table so hot that its contents were still bubbling inside. A thick layer of molten cheese covered perfectly baked eggs, with solid whites and delightfully gooey yolks. Tender black beans, spiced ranchero sauce (a zesty, tomato based sauce similar to enchilada sauce), and the slight heat of jalapenos. Freshly fried tortilla chips that offered crunch, bracing pickled onions that offered freshness, and lime creme fraiche that cooled the palate. Onions, garlic, cumin, and a smoky heat pervaded the dish without being overtly sharp or pungent. This was bright, deep, hearty, and satisfying. I can’t say enough good things about this dish or about the fact that it was an extremely ample portion.
Cookshop is a place I have to frequent more often. The prices are reasonable, the service is great, and the food is exceptional. They continuously prove that cooking seasonally and locally results in the best food on the planet.
Don’t be surprised if you see a third review for Cookshop at some point. It’s just that great.
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