The Fat Goose – A Neighborhood Haunt

I had read only good things about Fat Goose, a seasonally inspired restaurant in Williamsburg, so when my girlfriends wanted to take the train to Brooklyn for an early brunch, I was only too willing to join.
The restaurant was dead empty, but we were brunching insanely early, at 11 AM.  The room is casual with polished wood floors, a roomy bar, and tables next to large plate glass windows. It isn’t big, but it is laid out well and manages to feel spacious. 

The coffee is worth a special mention. Brought in individual French presses, it is rich and deep, with butterscotch undertones and no scorched notes of lesser coffees. Too many places around town serve sub par coffee, and this is a delightful way to start the day.
Spaghetti Squash Bruschetta with Sundried Tomatoes
I had never had spaghetti squash, and this was a delight! Airy, charred bread is topped with thin strands of squash, bright vinegar, and soft, salty sundried tomatoes. A variety of textures and an overriding light, fresh flavor adds versatility to brunch, which is often a heavy meal. 
Case in point:

Huevos Rancheros
This is a good rendition of huevos rancheros, but nothing more than that. Runny eggs, fluffy rice, garlicky black beans. The tortilla chips are thick and freshly fried, but there is no hot sauce offered with the eggs. When asked for hot sauce, I got Sriracha. Really?
I mean I love Sriracha – would bathe in it if I could – but with huevos rancheros, I want some Cholula or something. A Mexican hot sauce.
Does that make me racist?
That’s what she said?
(guess that last one doesn’t really apply here)
This dish was good but not memorable. Luckily, the next dish changed all that.

Buckwheat Crepe filled with Swiss Cheese and Ham, garnished with Sriracha
Now, this is where Sriracha works. The buckwheat crepe is crispy and thin, filled with lakes of gooey Swiss cheese and thick nuggets of meaty, salty ham. The Sriracha balances out the saline, unctuous elements of the crepe, cutting though it with vinegar and chiles. This is highly recommended. 

I now know what the hype is all about. It isn’t about the mind blowing Kobe beef or the gorgeous waitstaff. It’s about a great neighborhood restaurant. The kind of place where you can bring a book, grab a satisfying meal, and get out of there for under $15. Nicer than a diner, not as stuffy or expensive as many other brunch places. I wish this were in my hood, but until it is, I can thoroughly recommend you check out Fat Goose.

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