Landmarc – Meatballs for Breakfast

Landmarc, a casual but upscale restaurant in the Time Warner Center,  isn’t just about its cotton candy.

Well, truth be told, it really isn’t only known for its cotton candy.

It’s known for eclectic food done well and at a fair price.

 As you sit in the large, industrial-chic dining room overlooking Columbus Circle, you will be helped instantly by a well informed and efficient server. Only once have I had anything less than exemplary service here – it is usually beyond reproach.

 Oh yeah, and you can order anything off the menu at any time of day. That means these for breakfast:

Lamb Meatballs with whipped ricotta and mint

Nothing like meatballs for breakfast, especially these meatballs. Juicy and soft, spiked with sharp mint and a bit of chile in the slightly spicy, fresh tomato sauce. The ricotta adds a layer of lushness, echoing the grassy taste of the lamb. They are extremely juicy and not heavy at all.

I mean, really, I could eat at least 6 of these and feel as light as a feather.

Frisee aux lardons with red wine vinaigrette

A charming version of my very favorite salad. The frisee is crisp but not bitter, with a sharp and savory vinaigrette. The lardons – actual lardons, not just skimpy bacon bits – are thick and smoky, salty and crisp.

Paired with two glorious poached eggs, silky and rich when split open, this salad is everything that I want in the morning. It is buttery, salty, meaty, crisp, and fresh.

Duck confit and sweet potato hash

This fell a little flat, since the sweet potatoes were  not crispy enough and the onions were a little undercooked and bitter as well. The duck, while a bit dry, was pleasantly tender,and the eggs were cooked well.

In a restaurant of greats, though, why would you go for the one mediocre dish?

In the uber-expensive Columbus Circle area, this restaurant is a total find. Fairly (though far from cheaply) priced, extensive menu, and generally wonderful food.

And I lied…of course it’s always about the cotton candy.