NYC

The Dutch – 2 Years in and Holding Up Perfectly!

May 17, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

Let’s have lunch like it’s 2011!

That’s the year that Andrew Carmellini opened The Dutch in Soho and it became the hottest joint in town. Casual but hip, the kind of place that is great to impress a date or business colleagues as long as they are true foodies. This chef, straight off his success at Locanda Verde, had the golden touch. You could barely get in the door by 5 pm, let alone any really prime dinner hour. Two years later, it’s not quite as difficult to get a reservation but is the food still as good?

Chipotle cornbread with butter

Good but not amazing. A little dry and crumbly, with sweet corny flavor and some smoky heat throughout the bread. A fine way to whet the appetite, but nothing more.

Uni with espetlette pepper and pickled shimeji mushrooms

Here is where the culinary fireworks started. Smooth, briny uni is refreshing but sweet at the same time. A slight kick from the pepper builds to a quite tingly heat, tempered by the uni’s creaminess and the firm, tangy pickled mushrooms. Pairing the uni with such earthy flavors is really inspired - it brings a whole other dimension to the food. I loved this dish and would absolutely recommend it.
Hamachi with American caviar, lemon, sorrel, and yogurt

Another winner – The Dutch really knows how to combine ingredients to let each one bolster the other. The buttery fish, the salty caviar, the tangy lemon, and the creamy yogurt make a very memorable dish in a city rife with crudos and sashimi dishes. The caviar is particularly excellent here – it is briny and punchy, and adds a little pop of texture that jazzes up the dish. Add to that the tiny dices of asian pear and croutons and you have a dish that is mild enough for people who are wary of fish but interesting enough for those who (like me!) could eat it all day every day.

Steak tartare with grilled ramps, radishes, and mustard dressing

An excellent tartare, if not a particularly unique one. The beef is obviously high quality – tender and iron-y with a clean, imerally taste and some pearly streaks of fat. The mustardy dressing is piqant and strong, standing up to the rather sweet radishes and the mild grilled ramps. Served with grilled seedy, grain-y rad, it is tasty and worthwhile, it just isn’t as stand out as the other dishes I had.
Malfatti with Spring peas, bacon, and broccoli rabe pesto

Stop the presses. This is absolutely crave-worthy. The best pasta dish I have had in so long because it is so wonderfully seasonal. The peas are so sweet and grassy. The bacon is more like lardons- crunchy and soft and fatty and salty. The cheese atop is salty an sharp and that pesto…oh that pesto. It’s lightly garlicky and thick with olive oil and bitter enough to make the peas taste even sweeter than they already are. The pasta is really yellow and rich with egg yolks. It’s thick and substantial, with an al dente texture that stands up to the rich pesto. This is a must order dish, and since it’s so seasonal, it may be off the menu soon!

The Dutch is a totally great, destination worthy restaurant. The vibe is still very cool and foodie-friendly, you can wear jeans, and the service is knowledgeable without being abrasive. The price point is high but fair and the food is really unique and tasty – be sure to get a few selections off the raw bar or crudo.

After all this time The Dutch still brings the heat.

Filed Under: SoHo Tagged With: American

Co(pane) Was Worth the Wait

May 16, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

From the lost archives – my review of Co(pane):

I am not the kind of person who runs to a restaurant the day that it opens. I can’t stand lines or being on call-waiting for 30 minutes just to get a reservation. I figure, if the restaurant is great, it will only get better with time and practice. And if it isn’t, then all the better that I don’t waste my time and money while everyone else is doing just that!

So now you know where I stand…but that still does not excuse me.

Co.(pane) opened in 2009, and I JUST made it here. Jim Lahey, bread guru behind no-knead bread (which, yes, I still have yet to make) and Sullivan Street Bakery (Home to truly delicious pizza bianca and other treats), opened this casual pizzeria as his first foray into New York’s competitive pizza world. Some people loved it, some were less than charmed. So how did it measure up?

Co is a casual, breezy restaurant with lots of sunlight and a long communal table in the center of the room.

There is also a film projection of a fireplace. Consider me obsessed. Yes, there is a pizza oven behind that somewhere, but really…fake fire is just about the most fascinating thing ever.

Veal meatballs with homemade sauce, Parmesan and basil, served with bread and butter.

I tried these mostly because Serious Eats had named them some of the 15 best meatballs in NYC. They are indeed delicious, but not what I would call the BEST. All of the flavors were spot on – mild, juicy veal, salty Pecorino and nutty Parmesan cheeses, fresh, acidic tomatoes and sweet basil. It was a textural thing for me. The balls were just too dense for me.

The bread served with it is totally exemplary. Sour, crusty, bouncy, with a loose crumb and some soft, sweet butter on the side.

Escarole salad with bread crumbs, capers, lemon, olive oil and anchovies

A truly awesome Caesar-type salad. Though it lacks the garlicky punch of Caesar, the salty, acidic, pungent dressing is like a breath of salty sea air and is totally amazing. No cheese is needed, with the brine and salt of the anchovies and capers giving the necessary salinity. The breadcrumbs were really freshly toasted croutons; thick, crunchy without and tender within. The escarole has the mild, verdant taste of romaine but the velvety mouth feel and stiff texture of endive.

Bird’s Nest Pie with Oma and Tallegio Cheeses, Asparagus, Quail Eggs and Truffles.

I was originally going to order the Margherita pizza, to see how they do a plain old ‘za, but…hello…truffles.

What kind of heathen doesn’t order truffles when the opportunity arises?

The aroma of truffles was apparent the second the pie hit the table, along with the deep scent of the Tallegio cheese.

Upskirt shot: charred in spots, but not burnt. Pliant but not flimsy. Exemplary crust.

And the pie itself is…fantastic.

Fresh, light asparagus is shaved thin and piled on raw. Some pieces are snappy and fresh and some are charred to a crispy, almost sugary, carcinogen filled delight. The Tallegio cheese is melty and funky and the Oma cheese is buttery and rich. The eggs are delightfully runny and when broken they create a rich sauce.

And the truffle. The bewitching, intoxicating, deep but heady truffle. Four thick and hearty shavings of it.

I love truffles.

The dough itself is excellent – not cracker thin, but still managing to be light and pliant and crispy at the same time.

I love this place. Great service, reasonable price point and some really amazing food. The Caesar salad was out of this world, and the birds nest pizza is something I could eat every day of my life.

Co was definitely worth the wait.

Filed Under: Chelsea, review Tagged With: Italian, pizza

Lexington Brass Kicks Mother’s Day…Gluteus Maximus

May 14, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

I just love a restaurant that doesn’t force a prix fixe on you on Mother’s Day. A place that is nice but not “fancy,” that takes reservations, and that offers a good-sized menu with something for everyone in my party.

That’s how my family ended up at Lexington Brass for Mother’s Day brunch.

Lexington Brass is a restaurant that has hosted everyone from the cast of Gossip Girl to yours truly. It looks like an American brasserie – light, busy but not cramped, and casual with cloth napkins and an inventive cocktail list. The atmosphere is great for a solo lunch at the bar or a family affair like this one.

Brass ale beer waffles with bruleed bananas and cinnamon butter

This fell short for me. The waffle’s taste is good – yeasty, buttery, and a little malty from the beer. The fruit is sweet and juicy with crunchy sugared bananas. But the texture is way too floppy, verging on soggy. Yes, cinnamon butter contributes to that, as it melts and pools, which is lovely. However, a waffle must have crisp edges and that fluffy, light quality (vs. a sodden one) to make it into the pantheon of waffle greatness. Unfortunately, that made this first dish at the table a fail.

Chicken sausage

This proves how the right seasoning and care with a dish bumps it up to the next level. This is simply sausage, but it’s done perfectly – tender, juicy chicken with thyme and sweet maple. The texture is firm, with a steak-like chew. I would absolutely get this again to round out a meal.

Smoked salmon and white asparagus Benedict with ramp hollandaise

How many ways can I say “yes, yes, a thousand times, YES!” This is my idea of heaven. Why?

Silky, pleasantly smoky salmon? Check

Perfectly poached eggs with firm whites and thick, rich yolks? Check

Tender white asparagus, a mild and fresh contrast in the rich dish? Check

Slivers of toasted English muffin to soak up all of the intense flavors? Check

Decadent, buttery hollandaise, chartreuse and fragrant with the lightly garlicky, sweet onion-y taste of ramps? Check

I wish this dish was on the regular menu – but, of course, ramps have a very short season. That being said, it speaks to how closely the restaurant’s chef pays attention to what is in season and changes the menu accordingly. This dish had a myriad of textures and flavors that made it utterly satisfying.

Strawberry and rhubarb tres leches shortcake

Fabulous. Sweet strawberries macerated with tangy rhubarb has a fresh, sugary taste. The thick cream mimics the sweet, rich condensed milk that soaks the bottom shortcake bun. Sweet but not cloying and decadent but perfectly portioned. This is totally craveable.

This restaurant might not be destination worthy on its own, but on a holiday, run towards it. The prices are very fair, the service is good, and the food is quite tasty. Get that ramp hollandaise and get it fast.

And don’t ever pay a prix fixe just because you think there are no other options.

Filed Under: Midtown, review Tagged With: American, brunch

Wafles and Dinges Will Turn You Waffle Crazy

May 13, 2013 By fritosfg 1 Comment

Did you know that I love waffles? Well, I do. Everything from crappy Eggos to decadent Belgian waffles at a hotel brunch, I love them all. I crave the crisp edges with the fluffy innards – and, of course, the toppings. Syrup, ice cream, fried chicken, and everything in between. Yep, waffles are pretty amazing.

So, naturally, I love the Wafels and Dinges cart.

Wafles and Dinges means waffles and toppings in Flemish, Belgian’s national language. They specialize in the Belgian waffles known as liege waffles. Liege waffles are special because they are incredibly light, a little chewy, and filled with large, crunchy grains of vanilla-scented sugar.

Each waffle is made to order and topped with everything from pulled pork to whipped cream to…

Spekuloos

Spekuloos (often known as cookie butter or Biscoff spread) may be the most addictive substance since reality tv. It tastes like gingerbread and graham crackers with the consistency of peanut butter. It is sweet, gently spicy, fragrant, indulgent, and nutty all at once – just fantastic stuff!

The waffle itself is outstanding. Yeasty, fluffy, just barely chewy, with those big hunks of caramelized sugar pearls. Lacquered with that sweet spread, it is an absolutely perfect snack.

Head here post haste. Wafles and Dinges is well priced, unique, and delicious. And by the way…you can by a jar of the spekuloos to take home – that isn’t particularly cheap but it is TOTALLY worth it.

This truck will turn you into a waffle fanatic, too.

Filed Under: NYC Tagged With: Belgian, desserts, inexpensive

Keen’s Steakhouse – A True Gem in Midtown

May 7, 2013 By fritosfg 1 Comment

Here are some things that you need to know about Keen’s Steakhouse:

-It has the largest collection of churchwarden pipes in the world. Most of them are displayed on the ceiling.

-The owners of these pipes and members of this pipe club included such illustrious figures as Albert Einstein, Teddy Roosevelt, and Will Rogers.

-Actress Lillie Langtry sued the restaurant in 1905 (it was established in 1885) for being denied entry on grounds of being a girl. She won.

-I’m so glad she did. Cause this place is my new favorite steakhouse in NYC.

The restaurant defines clubby. It’s dark and fancy/casual with paneled walls, white tablecloths, and those pipes lining the ceilings. I say fancy/casual because you will be seated if you are wearing jeans and seated if you are wearing evening gowns. The atmosphere is classic and retro, similar to Grand Central Oyster Bar. Come here for a bachelor(ette) party and you will be in heaven.

Iceberg Wedge

A classic done right. A huge half head of iceberg slathered with sharp scallions and thick blue cheese dressing; tangy and creamy and earthy and meaty. Refreshing and rich all at once. It’s quite substantial and a great way to fill out your meat-centric meal.

Mutton chop

This is the thing to get here. They have world class beef steaks, too, but they are famous for their mutton (lamb) chop. Huge and juicy, with plenty of charred fat and grassy meat, it is distinctively lamb-y tasting. The meat is firmer and a little more tough than I am used to, but the flavor is wonderful. It’s really deep and full flavored, ideal with the sweet mint jelly served alongside. Don’t forget those wonderful garlicky sauteed greens either.

The meat is just so juicy and flavorful. If you like lamb chops, you will LOVE this. Oh, and order one to share with a dining companion…it’s mammoth-sized.

Carrot cake

Moist and spicier than most, with a zesty, lemon scented icing. I prefer a more classic variety, but this is still tasty and a great way to end a great meal.

This place is so cool. It’s full of history, has a less expensive pub room, and has a wonderful selection of scotch. Plus, that mutton chop isn’t something you see on every menu. The whole meal is pricey but worth it for a special occasion.

One more thing you need to know about Keen’s – it’s a must-hit dining destination in NYC.

Filed Under: Midtown, review Tagged With: American, Fine Dining

All Heat with No Fire at American Table

May 2, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

It might seem a little weird to go to a restaurant with no kitchen.

And yet, that’s just what I’m suggesting you do.

Marcus Samuelsson’s American Table Cafe and Kitchen isn’t fancy. It is nice, since it’s in Lincoln Center’s beautiful atrium, and there is a full bar. But the napkins are paper, the staff is laid back, and you order at the counter.

And. oh yeah…all the food is pre cooked, then assembled there.

How does that work?

Pretty well, evidently.

Doro Wat Chilaquiles

Oh YES! This stuff is just fabulous. Spicy, fragrant berbere mixes with chicken that is so tender, so rich, so flavorful that anyone would swear it was pork. It has the smoky sweet flavor of bbq with the curry-like tastes of ginger and chiles. A few hard boiled egg yolks are a nice color and textural component. Served with fresh, salty tortilla chips, pico de gallo, and a scoop of creamy cottage cheese, it is a mix between Mexican, Indian, and Ethiopian foods.

It’s a million vibrant flavors smacking you in the face.

Love it.

Smoked Caesar Salad

Less successful, but still tasty. The lettuce is fresh, the pumpernickel croutons are crunchy, but the dressing is a bit too smoky and lacks acid. It is tasty enough, though, and the portion is large and the price is right.

This place sin’t cheap or expensive – its what you wouldexpect to pay in this hood for quick service food, but the food is so much better than I anticipated. The service is definitely relaxed (leaning on the lackadaisical side), but the food is phenomenal! Go with a book or a friend and have a lunch so great that you will never believe that there was no kitchen involved.

It’s amazing at what Samuelsson can do with no kitchen…and how little some people can do with a kitchen.

Not pointing fingers, every family member who ever cooked me Passover dinner as a child.

Filed Under: review, Upper West Side Tagged With: American, Ethiopian, Mexican

Swine – Home to the Foie Gras and Jam-Wich

April 25, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

One of my girlfriends recently went to a restaurant that she said reminded her so much of me that I had to eat there, and fast.

That’s why it’s important to have good friends who really know you.

Swine is a west village restaurant specializing in all things barnyard. Yes, there is lots of pork, but also expect chicken, duck, beef, and anything else that flies, runs, or swims.

There are a few veggies on the menu too, but (luckily) most of them are drizzled in pork fat.

The restaurant is small ad dark, with a pinball machine at the entrance and a long bar. The vibe is great for a few drinks or for an intimate dinner with friends.

Duck fat cashews

Dining alone, I would never have ordered these, because I find cashews overly fatty and a little unctuous for my tastes. However, these totally changed my perception of cashews. Served warm and heavy dusted in a spice mixture, they are zesty, smoky, and redolent with Asian style spices. The duck fat gives the nuts a meat, grounded taste that somehow takes away their inherent greasiness.

Fat combating fat…it’s the way of the future, friends.

FG and J sandwich

Foie gras and strawberry balsamic jelly. If there is a more perfect sandwich in the world, I certainly haven’t found it. The first bite is a little sweet, but as you keep eating, the foie asserts itself. It is creamy and room temperature, melting in between the charred toasts. The jam is sweet enough to stand up to the wonderfully rich foie. This sandwich had us all licking our meaty, jammy fingers. This was a standout of the meal and in the neighborhood. It’s absolutely exemplary and at $18 a splurge, but a worthwhile one.

Bone marrow and brisket burger with potato wedges

A first rate ”cheffy” burger. Moist and thick, loosely packed and loaded with earthy, beefy flavor. The bun is substantial enough to stand up to its juices and the onions are sweet and soft. The potato wedges are also excellent – well seasoned and crisp on the outside while very fluffy within.

All that said…this burger is pricey for what it is. It’s high quality and well portioned, but just a wee bit overpriced, considering that it’s merely tasty and not totally craveworthy.

Braised chicken with garlic, peas, bacon, and mashed potaotes

Just like you wish your mama made. Dark meat chicken braised until it is totally tender but not at all mushy or stringy. The potatoes are smooth and buttery with a savory, bacon dotted gravy floating atop. The lardons are crunchy and salty and the peas and a welcome burst of sweetness. This bowl is elevated baby food, and I mean that as a compliment – the flavors are simple, direct, and focus on the ingredients. No fancy, high end products necessary. Just wonderful chicken, creamy potatoes, and the warmth of roasted garlic. This is something I can’t wait to reproduce at home, albeit with a tad less salt.

Swine is a very tasty restaurant. The food is a bit salty and the prices are a bit high, but the wine and cocktail list is wonderful and fairly priced. It’s better for a drink and a few bites than a full meal, but the FG and J sandwich is worth the trip alone.

People always talk about how important it is to have friends when you are going through hard times. But sometimes it’s just as important to have friends when you are hungry for dinner. They should know just where to send you!

Filed Under: review, West Village Tagged With: American

What’s Delicious Lately

April 19, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

These three dishes have tickled my tastebuds recently, and you should go seek them out!:

Chocolate Cupcake at Butter Lane Cupcakes

No, these aren’t better than Buttercup cupcakes, but they are really tasty. The gimmick is also great – mix and match the flavors of cupcakes and icing as you like. The icing comes in flavors like espresso and salted caramel, plus there is a weekly rotating flavor. The cake is a little drier than I like, but the frosting is lovely. Not too sweet, not too thick – just light, tangy cream cheese frosting that is moist and finger-lickin good.

Steak Tartare at Danji

This little modern Korean restaurant is as wonderful now as it was when it first opened. The menu continues to evolve with dishes like this. The steak is hand cut so it reteaisn a steak-like texture. It is mixed with a heavy dose of sesame oil and fragrant Asian spices. It is topped with sweet Asian pear and served with a qual egg and crispy slaw alongside. Once you mix up all the ingredients, the plate loses its lovely look but tastes incredible. A variety of tastes and textures that is cool, crunchy, spicy, salty, nutty, and very satisfying. Sit at the bar with a glass of champagne and order a few small plates, including this.

Pizza from Gloria’s

Just great NYC pizza. Thin, foldable crust. Oregano spiked sauce. A thin layer of bubbly cheese. Warm, savory, pleasantly greasy. Perfection eaten off of a paper plate with a sprinkle of hot pepper flakes.

Filed Under: Queens

Kimcheese Sandwiches at Porsena Extra Bar

April 18, 2013 By fritosfg 2 Comments

I saw a famous chef cooking in her own kitchen. At lunch service, nonetheless.

That shouldn’t be a huge deal…but it is.

In this day and age of celebrity chefs with huge restaurant empires, it’s not the most common thing to see an acclaimed chef cooking inside her own restaurant instead of jet-setting to fabulous events.

So imagine my thrill at seeing Sarah Jenkins walking through Porsena Extra Bar, her diminutive add on to the loved East village Italian restaurant Porsena.

Porsena Extra bar is small and narrow, with – as the name implies – a long bar at which you can sit and drink some wine from the extensive, excellently priced list. As far as food goes, don’t expect strictly Italian dishes like next door. Instead, expect some of Jenkins’ more whimsical dishes.

Salami, goat cheese, and fig jam on baguette

Simple and perfect. The fig jam is sweet but not cloying or sugary it really tastes just like ripe, jammy figs. It is served with spicy salami that is garlicky and peppery but not salty or greasy. It is soft in texture, multifaceted in taste, and works well with that sweet jam and the creamy, mild goat cheese. The bread is literally perfect – not too hard, not too squishy. This sandwich is just beautifully constructed, and is served with a light, bright salad where even the cucumbers are peeled and sliced on a bias.

It’s that attention to detail that really make a difference.

Grilled Kimcheese

This puts all other kimchee/cheese combos to shame. Yes, I’m saying this beats them all. The Pullman bread is soft and incredibly buttery, so it has a crispy, thin layer where it has touched the grill. Underneath that sheath is a soft, buttery layer of bread. It melts into the American cheese and kimchee puree filling. The filling is subtle – I might not even know that it was kinchee if I hadn’t read the menu. The filling is creamy and beautifully gooey, but with a slightly spicy garlicky tang that isn’t overtly fishy or salty. The kimchee puree cuts through the buttery richness of the other ingredients and makes this rich sandwich a star. Split it with a friend or be prepared to take a long nap afterwards.

Porsena Extra Bar is a gem. It’s super inexpensive for the quality, with a very cheap and high quality happy hour. In the evening, there is an entirely different menu than the one at lunch, and you can also order food from Porsena next door. The service is jovial and efficient, and the vibe is perfect for a solo lunch.

Plus, Sara Jenkins is in the kitchen either here or next door. , overseeing the food

It shouldn’t be such a big deal, but it totally is.

Filed Under: East Village Tagged With: inexpensive, sandwiches

Tony’s di Napoli -You Know What You’re Getting

April 9, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

There is a time for fine dining and a time for fast food. And then, there is a time for a huge gathering of friends, where everyone is hungry and no one wants to spend a lot of money. But you all still want to sit and have a glass of wine. That’s the time for casual, big format dining.

Tony’s di Napoli is the ind of place you have seen before. It’s a huge, cavernous restaurant with frescoes of Tuscany and servers carrying huge platters of veal picatta and jugs of red wine. It’s generic Italian-American food – nothing offensive, nothing innovative. You know what will be on the menu and you know what it should taste like. From the moment that a basket of warm, doughy sourdough bread plops down at your table, you know exactly what to expect.

Heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad

I admit, ordering this was my fault. Why would I order heirloom tomatoes this early in the year and why would I order them here? Of course they were mealy and tasteless. That isn’t even the restaurant’s fault, that’s mine – I fell for the “special salad of the day” pitch. The upside is that the rest of this salad was really tasty. The mozzarella was creamy and soft and the croutons were large and crunchy, soaking up the very delicious garlicky vinaigrette. The basil strewn about the plate was fresh and plentiful, and I could see that if this was just made with some of the arugula decorating the bottom of the plate how it could be really tasty.

Rigatoni with vodka sauce, mushrooms, and sausage

Surprisingly excellent! The rigatoni is well cooked, so it is al dente and has a nice chew to it. The vodka sauce is not only creamy but surprisingly bright with tomato and a little spicy with red pepper flakes. The mushrooms are juicy and the sausage is a salty, meaty addition to the dish. That isn’t to say it’s a salt bomb, because it isn’t. The pasta is surprisingly well seasoned and layered with flavor. This is by no means light, but it is very satisfying.

Chicken Parmesan

Doesn’t look too appetizing, right? It looks kinda like it tastes – not bad, not great. Kinda sloppy. Muted, mushy flavors. Lots of canned tomato flavor with not enough salt or herbs to balance it out. Stretchy mozzarella but not enough – if any – nutty, salty Parmesan Tender chicken with soggy breading. It’s okay. It’s fine, especially with some pasta (that must be ordered separately . It’s not the best, nor the worst in the city.

That’s what Tony’s di Napoli is, in a nutshell. Not the best, not the worst. The prices, especially for being in the middle of Times Square, are very fair for the portion size. Some of the food is really pretty good. But most of it is meh. It’s really best for when you need a quick dinner for a large group of people.

After all, like I mentioned earlier, there is a time for that.

Filed Under: Midtown Tagged With: Italian