Flatiron

Cannibal – All Meat, All the Time

March 14, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

I am a huge fan of Resto, and have wanted to try its sister restaurant Cannibal for a long time.

I mean, it’s named Cannibal…how ballsy is that? For the tongue in cheek name alone, I wanted to dine here. Plus, this butcher shop-cum-restaurant ages its own beef and offers delicacies like lamb tartare, beef hearts, and pig’s heads…it sounded right up my alley!

Cannibal doesn’t take reservations for parties of fewer than six, so be prepared to wait if you come here on a weekend. The long, narrow restaurant is mostly bar space. However, the outside patio is enclosed and heated, and dining at one of the long, rustic picnic tables is a great option. It’s great for a couple of friends grabbing a quick bite, or a group of buddies who want to eat every part of the pig. The vibe is very cool and Brooklyn-esque…if you don’t know what I mean by that, watch an episode of Portlandia.

The thing to drink here is beer – the list is positively gargantuan, as evidenced by the long cases of beer lining the restaurant walls. There is a full bar and a small by-the-glass wine list, but come on, live a little…get a beer, ale, porter, or stout. Go for the large format, light and easy-to-drink Higgs de Bosson or a refreshing beer Negroni from the short but excellent beer cocktail list.

Note: Please excuse the poor photos, but the food was as great as the lighting was bad!

Brussels sprout salad with egg, red onion, and pine nuts

A crisp, bright salad that was necessary with all of our meaty choices. The sprouts are in a mixture of shreds and whole leaves, dressed in a fragrant olive oil vinaigrette. The pine nuts are rich and crunchy next to the grassy sprouts, and those red onions add a little zip. The final touch is a very gently boiled egg that has JUST barely solidified, so it is creamy and not crumbly. This simple salad is well composed, designed to complement the meat on the menu yet also stand on its own.

Beef

My favorite dish of the night. Made in house, it is cured in Sriracha, Worcestershire, sugar, and other ingredients. Then it is dried until pleasantly chewy but still juicy and far softer than most commercial jerky. It has an inherent beefy, robust taste that is accentuated by spicy, salty, and sweet notes. It is vibrant and complex in flavor – I really can’t say enough about this jerky. It’s a standout in every way.

Ham plate

An excellent sampling of hard to find hams. The long board is piled generously with salty Virginia ham, paper-thin whisps of deeply savory Benson County ham, and – my favorite – the thickly shaved prosciutto. I don’t know when I have had such good prosciutto. One member of our party remarked “wow… this really tastes raw…and I mean that in a good way.” The meat tastes fresh, soft and succulent; more smoky than salty and more sweet than either. The fat melts on the tongue the way that only Iberian ham usually does, and the slightly thicker cut makes it very satisfying. The accompanying buttery biscuit and honey are delightful as well.

We also had a wonderful Mediterranean accented lamb tartare and some tasty garlicky cauliflower. The service could not be better – really, the entire staff from host to server went out of its way to recommend items, see how we were doing, and kibbitz with us during the meal. That being said, Cannibal is a little expensive for what it is. Expect to pay at least $30 per person for a meal here, and you will leave satisfied but in no way bursting from the portions. However, if you want to try some really well prepared meats and are feeling flush, this is worth a visit.

And when you go, get some of that jerky…then give it to me.

Filed Under: Flatiron, review

Favorite Dishes at Favorite Restaurants

March 4, 2013 By fritosfg 4 Comments

I love visiting new restaurants – that’s why this city is such a blessing to me. There is always a new restaurant to try, a new cuisine to taste, and a myriad of price ranges for whether I am feeling like wearing heels or flip flops.

However…

There is something to be said about returning to old faithful. Seeing servers who know you and going through the menu until you have tried nearly every dish listed. Here are a few of my favorite dishes at restaurants that I can’t help but frequent all the time (or wish I did, anyway!).

Ranchero Scramble at The Smith

This restaurant really has it all, at all of its 3 locations. Fair prices, fabulous cocktails, an bustling atmosphere, and really great food. It has something for everyone and I have come here for girls night, brunch with the family, and dates – it really lends itself well to all sorts of occasions. If you are there for breakfast or brunch, I heartily recommend the Ranchero Scramble. These eggs come in a huge, fluffy pile, so light that they practically float away. They are served atop a crispy tortilla with onion and garlic flecked black beans and a smoky, rich salsa. Topped with a blanket of cheddar cheese and half of a buttery avocado, this is hangover food at its finest. Just be sure to schedule a nap after brunch, because you will be in a major food coma.

Oysters at West Side Atlantic Grill

Atlantic Grill has a couple of locations, but the one by Lincoln Center is my favorite. Though I love the simply grilled fish, the crisp and pungent Caesar salad, and the wonderful homemade desserts, there is only one dish to order for an appetizer here. The oysters. The oysters are always fantastic – expensive, to be sure, but it’s Lincoln Center…the stuff in this area is pricey. They are small, deep, and creamy or large, flat, and briny, scouted from the east and West coast and changed daily according to supply. They are served with a wonderful sweet and spicy Thai vinaigrette as well as the traditional horseradish, cocktail sauce, and mignonette. The oysters are satisfying and decadent, but not too rich if you are starting a long meal. Bring your credit card and bring high expectations.

Make-your-own-paella at Socarrat Paella Bar

This is still my favorite paella in the city. I love the crispy layer on bottom the salty, sticky layer on top, and the wonderful variety of ingredients What isn’t advertised is that you can basically customize the paella in any way you want. If you don’t like seafood, remove it entirely from your order. Want to add rabbit or mushrooms? Add an extra $5 per person per ingredient, and your dream paella is yours. This is fantastic when dining with people who are kosher, who have intolerance to certain veggies, or who are just plain picky. It also proves that the paella really is made to order – as if you couldn’t taste it, you now know it for sure.

Kabocha Squash Toast at ABC Kitchen

Oh, ABC Kitchen. You never lose your sparkle, do you? Still the darling of the NYC dining scene 2 years after its James Beard Award win for best new restaurant, it keeps innovating its menu, providing return guests with new and tasty menu options. For one of the tastiest, look to the squash toast. The sqaush is roasted, then pureed with apple cider vinegar and salt. It tops creamy ricotta cheese and sour peasant bread. The result is so extraordinary that you really have to go try it. Creamy and crunchy and sour and sweet and rich and light and salty and bright…this is so delicious that words don’t do it justice.

I’m so lucky to go try new restaurants all the time. I love this city, ever changing and always vibrant. But now, if you’ll excuse me, I’m off to go get another order of that squash toast.

Sometimes, I just prefer Old Faithful.

Filed Under: Flatiron, Midtown, review, Upper West Side

Artisanal – For the Love of Cheese

August 10, 2012 By fritosfg 1 Comment

I take cheese very seriously.

If you don’t, just stop reading now.

If you DO…well then, you will want to make your way to Artisanal for dinner, as I did. This Terrance Brennan restaurant, an NYC stalwart for years, is the city’s most famous cheese emporium. The restaurant worships cheese. There are cheese tasting menus, cheese fondues, and even an entire room filled with the stinky stuff, where you can eat amongst the dairy.

If that doesn’t sound romantic to you, then again, please just stop reading now.

Artisanal looks like a huge bustling Parisian brasserie - a bit less authentic than Balthazar, but just as bustling. It is ideal for an upscale dinner with a group of friends, but since it gets so loud, it isn’t the best choice for a first date.

Lady Mary with Lillet Blanc, Citrus, Basil, and Champagne

It is rare that a restaurant makes a cocktail so extraordinary that I sit up and take notice. This is such a rarity. Lillet Blanc is an aperitif, a fortified white wine that is sweet and citrusy. It balances well with the peppery basil and tart lemon. The final touch of crisp champagne makes this bright cocktail both potent and eminently drinkable. This tastes like punch but after just one, you will be pretty buzzed.

Luckily, the restaurant serves plenty of dishes to soak up that booze.

Bread

Each meal here starts with crusty, tangy sourdough bread. There is a nutty whole wheat version as well, and both go well with the sweet, unsalted butter.

Steak Tartare

This starter is a classic bistro dish. Cubes of tender, robust beef, mix with egg yolk, capers, pepper, and Worcestershire sauce in this satisfying, if somewhat bland rendition. I prefer my tartare to be mixed tableside, extra spicy, but this is at least made with extremely fresh, coarsely ground beef. It is especially tasty when spread on warm toast, creating a carnivorous open faced sandwich. The frites that come alongside are exemplary. Piping hot, incredibly crispy, and not too salty – they really taste of potato. Order the truffle mayonnaise alongside for dipping purposes. The mayonnaise is rich and creamy, and the truffles are heady, deep, and incredibly savory. I started dipping my spoon into the serving vessel and eating the mayo plain.

No, I’m not embarrassed.

Fondue

When you come here, you eat fondue. There are 3 fondues to choose from – 2 standard choices, and one rotating fondue du jour. The one we tried, the fondue du jour, was made with leeks and Gruyère cheese. The fondue comes to your table with hunks of bread, and you of course have to purchase some add ons. The fondue arrives to the table in a pot on a burner, so it stays liquid and warm the whole time. The first thing about this fondue was the aroma. It smelled like that mouth-watering scent of onions bubbling away in butter, mixing with the light, high note of white wine. Dipping a chunk of bread in the fondue made the cheese stretch from the pot to my plate in a ribbon. The taste was…perfection. Nutty, salty, gooey, creamy. Studded with sweet bits of browned and caramelized leeks.

The bread is tasty enough, but when you add in juicy nuggets of garlicky kielbasa, sweet apples, and tiny, tart cornichons, the meal takes on a wholly different level of greatness. The tastes are so varied and customizable – the pot finished all too quickly.

Profiteroles

If you are eating French, you might as well do it all the way – am I right or am I right?

The profiteroles here are topped tableside with warm, viscous chocolate sauce that hits the perfect note between bitter, milky, and sweet. The ice cream is smooth and fragrant with vanilla, and the dough is crisp and light, crunching ever so slightly between the teeth. The best dessert on the menu, and possibly the best rendition in town of this dish.

Artisanal is a very special place. Not just because the prices are upscale but not obscene. Not just because the service is efficient and knowledgeable but not pushy. Not even because the food and drinks are spot on in preparation and execution. It is because this restaurant specializes in the ultimate communal experience. What fosters conversation more than eating together and sharing a meal like this? Dipping into bread basket together, laughing as cheese strings refuse to break, arguing over which fondue to get…this is what eating is about. It is about sharing an experience with another person. Artisanal is tailor-made for that kind of experience.

And if you love cheese as I do, it is tailor-made for you.

Filed Under: Flatiron Tagged With: french, review

Periyali – Elegant Greek Seafood

February 14, 2012 By fritosfg 2 Comments

Where did I first hear about Periyali? Was it on Chowhound? Egullet? Serious Eats?
Somehow, was in my (never ending)mental index of restaurants to try, and last week, its number came up.

As I descended the steps of a Flatiron area building, I entered into a large, elegant dining room. Graced with billowing fabric, wall hangings evoking the sea, and whitewashed furniture, the mood was undeniably Greek and inevitably charming. Almost as charming as our server, who, upon discussing the menu with us, snatched it out of our hands and proceeded to do all the ordering for us. Shrinking violets may not do well here…this server was a hoot and a half, and he really appreciates a table that likes to banter and loves to eat.

Sampler Plate with Taramosalata, Melitzanosalata, Tzatziki Salad, Fava Kremidaki,Spanakopita, Tiropita, and Kolokithokeftedes
Taramosalata – whipped cod roe dip. It sounds freaky, and often it is – fishy, and iodine-y, and gross. This is none of those things. Whipped with creamy feta cheese until it is light as air and just vaguely briny. Not at all fishy, just fresh and salty, like the sea air.
Melitzanosalata - grilled eggplant puree. Velvety, earthy, and garlicky. An eggplant lover’s dream.
Tzatziki Salad – cucumber and dill dip. Creamy with yogurt, herbal, and a welcoming mild component of the flavor-packed plate.
Fava Kremidaki - pureed yellow split peas with red onion, lemon and olive oil. A cross between hummus and lentil soup. Hearty, pleasantly grainy, lightened with bright lemon and fruity olive oil. Delicious with the crispy pita wedges.
Spanakopita - feta and spinach pie. Flaky dough surrounding molten, sharp cheese and spinach.
Tiropita - cheese pie. Slightly sweet and creamy on the inside. The Greek version of blintzes.
Kolokithokeftedes - zucchini fritter. As light and flavorful as latkes, with the natural sweetness of zucchini. Delightful when dunked in the tzatziki.

*note that this isn’t on the menu. Our server suggested he put together an appetizer plate for us, and I feel confident that if you were to ask for a house-selected appetizer plate, you would get a similarly excellent selection.*

Keftedakia Saltsa
These Greek meatballs stewed in tomato sauce were the best meatballs I have had since Alta. So subtle and intricate – the meat is tender and the spices were incredibly varied. I tasted cinnamon, fennel, garlic, and I don’t know what else in there. Sweet, savory, aromatic, slightly sour…these are addictive.

Oktapodi Sharas
Charcoal grilled, red wine marinated octopus that we were assured was the restaurant’s specialty. And it is. The octopus is incredibly tender – it really cuts like a piece of swordfish, barely needing a knife. The taste is not at all seafood-y. It is meaty and light, like a piece of pork tenderloin. It has a slightly charred exterior surrounding its meaty interior, and the light lemony butter sauce served over it brings a layer of acidity to the dish.

Desserts
Walnut Cake, Orange Cake and Greek Cookies were all very tasty, but really…go straight for the orange cake. The other things are good, but this is unbelievable. It tastes like it is made with cornmeal, and has the light, pliant texture of angel food cake. It is soaked in a viscous, vibrant syrup made of honey and oranges that transports you straight to summer. Sweet, light, and a perfect way to end a pretty perfect Greek meal.

Periyali is a delight. Fantastic service, delicious food, and with a 3 course dinner prix fixe of $35 (which I did not try), what’s not to love? The portions are ample and the octopus is especially amazing (though I can’t wait to try the moussaka next time,which the table next to us tried – it smelled positively intoxicating).
With a restaurant this great, does it really matter who told me about it?
Just remember who’s telling YOU about it.

Filed Under: Flatiron Tagged With: Flatiron, greek, review

Resto – Fantastic Belgian Gastropub in Flatiron

December 4, 2011 By fritosfg 5 Comments

Resto is a Belgian influenced gastropub in Flatiron that is known for its extensive beer selection, full-beast feasts, and delicious, meat-centric menu.

As a meat-centric kinda gal, hitting this restaurant up for lunch was a no brainer.

The restaurant is small, but has plenty of room between tables. The dining room is casual but from the well dressed clientele to the small floral arrangements on the tables, this place screams understated upscale. And it also screams serious foodie.

Bitterballen

These fried meatballs were nothing short of revelatory – small, tender balls of rich beef and melty, stretchy cheese encased in a crunchy shell. The sharp mustard aioli cut through the fattiness of the meatball, and the counter-play between crunchy and soft, rich and bracing, warm and cool was absolutely miraculous.

If that doesn’t make your mouth water, I don’t think I can help you.

Olive Oil Poached Wild King Salmon with Gribiche and Chives

If you have ever had salmon salad…this is nothing like it. That would be like comparing a Pinto to a Ducati. The salmon, gently poached until JUST cooked through, was broken into large, delicate flakes before being mixed with an herbed mayonnaise. Tarragon and dill were definitely in there, plus a few more I couldn’t place. The salmon spread was almost like rillettes – almost silken in texture and rich in taste. It contrasted with the hearty, sour rye bread on which it was placed.

Cripsy Pig’s Ear Salad with Frisee, Lardons, and a Poached Egg

This was a Salade Lyonnaise on steroids. Crunchy, curly, slightly bitter frisee paired with crispy, meaty hunks of salty bacon and a perfectly poached egg, with creamy whites and a velvety, buttery yolk. The bright vinaigrette cut straight through all the animal fats of the dish, and the pig’s ears were quite good – crisp on the edges and slightly chewy within, with the hearty, deep, almost primal taste of pork.

This was a fatty, bright, texture filled dish and one that I would not hesitate to order again.

Grilled Cheese with Vermont Cheddar, Gruyere, Bacon, and Pork Belly

This was fat on bread. No other way to put it. Sharp cheddar, nutty Gruyere, salty bacon, and luscious, melty, tender pork belly. If any of those things sound bad to you, just stop reading my blog. You aren’t going to like it. This sandwich, served on airy slices of pullman bread, was very rich, but also well balanced by the use of the sharp cheddar and serving it with a lightly dressed salad.

This is enough food to put you into a pork-induced coma, so be aware that this isn’t a great choice for lunch if you have to go to work later.

Frites with All Sauces

Piping hot, lightly salted, with crispy golden outsides and fluffy-creamy interiors.

Served with a myriad of dipping sauces, they were all delicious, from the curry tinged Lime Pickle to the sweet onion topped Aioli to the spicy Sriracha mayonnaise…this was only $7, and was enough for 3 people, easily. These fries are unmissable, and so are the dipping sauces!

Be prepared that if there is a large party there, like there was when we lunched, you will need to order quickly and in full. Otherwise the waitstaff can get a little frenzied and you may have to flag someone down by shooting off a flare.

Besides that very minor detail, lunch at Resto was perfect – really. The prices are extremely reasonable, the atmosphere is great for a casual lunch or dinner, and the food is just fantastic. The menu looks so simple, but everything is produced with incredible talent and attention to detail. From the ethereal but hearty bitterballen to the porky goodness of the pig’s ear salad to the truly awesome frites, this meal was spot on.

Next up: Who wants to join me at Resto for a whole roasted lamb?!

Filed Under: Flatiron Tagged With: Belgian, Flatiron, review

Escargot at Almond

November 4, 2011 By fritosfg 3 Comments

I hadn’t heard much about Almond when Feisty Foodie, Hungry and I decided to go there for dinner. My only specifications were that it had champagne and escargot. No, I clearly did NOT get my fill of these healthy food items while in France.

The restaurant is large and eclectically decorated, with a comfortable couch and coffee table in the foyer, rustic wooden tables throughout and a spacious, happening bar. The vibe is relaxed but lively. This is a fantastic place for a first date – flirty but not really romantic.

Sparkling Wine

We ordered a sparkling rose and it was okay at best. Properly fizzy, but far too sweet, without any citrusy or deep notes to take away from the residual sugar. This might be good as a dessert wine, but was just too sweet for most of our meal.

Octopus and Potatoes with Pickled Poblanos

this dish was good but not great. the octopus, while fresh and mild tasting,was a little more rubbery than I like it, and the creamy potatoes were a bit salty. the pickled poblanos were positively inspired – vinegary and lip tingling, they added spice with just a bit of heat to make the octopus taste meatier and the potatoes taste sweeter and more earthy. I am being harsh here – the dish was good, it was just not outstanding.

Escargots

These were every bit as good as the escargot I enjoyed in Paris, with the added pleasure of being easier to eat. All the meat was taken out of the shell, baked in tangy Pernod, sharp garlic and fresh parsley, then topped with a piece of bread that was crusty on the top and delightfully moist and buttery where it touched the snails. This made sure that I got every bit of the luscious, salty, garlicky butter in the little dish. the snails themselves were so tender, so mild, so delightful that I can only compare them to the moistest chicken thighs, but with the texture of tuna sashimi. Just try it for yourself.

In fact, I would go back to Almond for these in a heartbeat. The price was right, the service was great and the escargot were to die for. The octopus dish was not worth a repeat, nor was the wine.

But I’ll be damned if I didn’t wake up the next morning wanting to eat more of those snails!

Filed Under: Flatiron Tagged With: American, Flatiron, review

Aldea Makes its Way to the Top of the List

August 24, 2011 By fritosfg 2 Comments

George Mendes’ Michelin Starred restaurant Aldea has been on my list for awhile, but, as many upscale restaurants tend to do, kept sinking to the bottom. This isn’t the type of restaurant you just happen to walk into on a Wednesday night.

This is a reservation-worthy, get your high heels on, skip lunch sort of place. And I did all those things (Well, let’s be honest…didn’t wear heels) when I arrived for my reservation.

The extremely affable hostess asked if we would like to be seated at the chef’s counter – yes, please! We walked through the small, muted dining room and sat at a sushi bar in front of all the chefs. We literally got to watch the staff of a Michelin-starred restaurant at work. This was like my version of watching an adult film – I was intrigued, I was paying attention and I was most DEFINITELY excited.

Olive Baguette and Bacon Fat Cornbread.

The olive baguette was exemplary – sour, crusty and studded with moist, slightly bitter green olives – but the cornbread was something else altogether. Crumbly, soft but not mushy and with a pervasive smoky taste and aroma. Not specifically bacon-y, but so hearty and meaty with that deeply porky taste pervading throughout. Clearly, I ate it all.

Caphirena Macaron

Crispy, minty macarons melded with a sweet and potent alcoholic snow cone. Cooling with the mint and crunchy with the macaron, it melted in my mouth leaving behind the tang of alcohol and the promise of a great meal to come.

Gaspacho

A classic version of the Mediterranean soup. Smooth, creamy, acidic and sweet with tomatoes and a ton of sherry vinegar. The vinegar was cut by a ball of spherical mozzarella that was liquid on the inside, its creaminess melding with the bite of the sherry vinegar. Not as transcendent as the version at M. Wells, but I could still drink a gallon of this.

Cured Foie Gras with Market Peaches, Lemon Verbena and Almonds.
Smooth, rich foie gras that tasted even sweeter with the flecks of salt. Crunchy almonds broke up the creaminess of the foie, and the peaches were satiny and bright, punching up the meaty flavor of the liver. The lemon verbena was judiciously used, so it wasn’t like eating a mouthful of perfume, just a gentle hit of the herb to bring a fragrant note to the rich dish.

Shrimp with Garlic, Coriander, Razor Clams and Trout Roe.

This was the one dish of the meal that I was not crazy about. Loved the shrimp – obviously oil poached and so tender they were almost liquid. Loved the trout roe, gently salty and pleasantly sticky. Loved the garlicky, pungent broth. But those razor clams…I just couldn’t get past them. They had a very fishy, iodine-y taste to them. Too bad, because the rest of the dish was very tasty, but the razor clams just didn’t do it for me.

Arroz De Pato with Duck Confit, Chorizo, Cracklings, Olives and Tangerines.

My paella kick continues and this just might be my favorite one. The rice was so creamy, so rich, so redolent of citrus and the salty kick of olives. The duck confit was juicy and tender and the chorizo was fragrant with garlic and fatty pork. The cracklings were like pork scented potato chips – crispy, shattering in the mouth, contrasting with the melting texture of the confit and the total creaminess of the rice. If you come here for just one dish, come here for this. Our server said it was her favorite and man…she has great taste.

Passion fruit Tart with Coconut Ice Cream and Caramelized Bananas.

Oh yes. Sweet, tart passion fruit. Dark, slightly bitter chocolate. Fluffy, light mousse next to crisp, decadent crust. A sorbet so rich it seemed to be made entirely of cream.

And bananas…don’t worry, I didn’t eat those.

But I did eat these cranberry mignardises. Sweet, tangy and the perfect way to end the meal.

And what a meal it was! Portuguese food evidently focuses on strong, fresh, zesty flavors, because that’s what this whole meal was. Wonderful service, fair prices and delicious food made the night one to remember. And let’s not forget the fact that you can sit at the counter and watch the chefs prepare your food. I could just watch the way that they cut vegetables into tiny even dices for hours. Maybe that’s just me…but its also a great way to not have to talk to your dinner date!

Of course, if I was your dinner date, all I would be doing was talking about how fab this meal was.

And all that from something that got pushed down on my list.

Filed Under: Flatiron Tagged With: Fine Dining, Portuguese, review

Junoon – Home to the Hottest and Possibly Best Chef in NYC

July 29, 2011 By fritosfg 4 Comments

I have said it before and I’ll say it again:

I LOVE Indian food.

The flavor combinations are so complex, the ingredients so foreign and the culture behind the food is fascinating to me.

Junoon has been highly acclaimed for its haute Indian cuisine, helmed by Vikas Khanna, who Eater deemed the hottest chef in NYC,

Hot, shcmot…give me some great aloo gobi, then we can talk.

The restaurant is a mix of dark modern elegance and opulent Indian touches. The bar is more about gilded decorations and the dining room is more about muted colors where we could focus on the food.

As we got our drinks, we mainly focused on these gougeres – a decidedly elegant and unlikely touch for a South Asian restaurant. Puffy, crispy but not hard shells surrounded a creamy, doughy interior that tasted like Gruyere air. It was that light and rich at the same time. An excellent example of a gougere.

Sparkling Saffron – Champagne Infused with Saffron.

This may be my favorite champagne cocktail I have ever had. The champagne was sort of yeasty and toasty, and the saffron gave it an earthy yet heady fragrance that enveloped my nose and throat. Not unlike truffles, saffron is a powerful and deep flavor, where only a little makes a huge change in a dish. Here, it brought out the savory, wheaty notes of the champagne.

Tandoori Broccoli.

The best broccoli I have had since Amaya, hands down. Less charred than its British counterpart, with tender but not soft stalks, it was cloaked in a ginger-y tomato and onion sauce, and served with a bracingly fresh cilantro sauce on the side. It was fresh but filling – something that can hardly be said for most vegetables.

Piri-Piri Shrimp with Avocado, Jicama and Myer Lemon Vinaigrette.

These plump, moist shrimp were coated in a fiery, tart, sweet sauce that was so addictive, I would bet my life there was crack cocaine in there. The flavors were well balanced – burning first at the front of my lips, then a bit sweet on the tongue, then a clear high note that had to be vinegar…I won’t pretend to know how this was made. I will just tell you that if you have any inclination towards powerful, high octane food, this is a must get. Here, even buttery avocado was an afterthought. The shrimp were so outstanding, I just wanted to eat them and them alone.

Star Anise Sea Scallop with Cracked White Peppercorn, Cinnamon and Roasted Yellow Pepper Chutney. The scallop had a crust that I had not seen before on fish. It was a spice crust, like one you might see on a steak. A more clumsy chef might have overseasoned the buttery shellfish, but Khanna was careful to grind the spices finely so they did not assault the tastebuds. The peppercorn, star anise and cinnamon created a biting-sweet-spicy effect that was cohesive with the scallops’ rich flavor and the tropical sweetness of the chutney.

Mint Paratha.

Though we usually order naan, our enthusiastic and congenial server convinced us to order this paratha instead. Fluffier and lighter than naan, it was almost like an Indian puff pastry, with layer upon layer of flaky, buttery dough that was spackled with shards of fresh, herbaceous mint. It was warm, delicate and a total departure from wheaty, hearty naan.

Starting from upper left hand corner: Lobster Tandoori, Dahe Wale Lamb Chops, Paneer Akbari, Murg Makhani Kebab.

Lobster Tandoori-Huge and succulent chunks of lobster bathed in a tangy, pungent sauce that was similar to tikka masala in its richness and its mildness. It was spicy with cumin and sweet with fennel, but there was no heat to speak of. Just the spices and tartness from lemon.

Dahe Wale Lamb Chops-Cooked in the tandoor, like the lobster, this had an entirely different texture. Still juicy, but with a charred crust that bordered on bitter, contrasting pleasantly with the sweet grassiness of the lamb. At it’s best, lamb is has a lightly gamy, grassy taste, and that’s just what this lamb had. The yogurt marinade made the lamb soft, while cooking it on the bone retained that full on meaty flavor. Ginger, cardamom and other spices contributed to the rub that did not take away from the lamb, but rather made it taste lamb-ier

Paneer Akbari – This homemade cheese was similar to Greek halloumi cheese – firm and extremely mild, ready to take on other flavors. This fully absorbed the flavors of the sauce – the aromatic, warming garam masala, the fatty, meaty cashews, the smooth cream rounding out the sauce’s edges…it was my favorite dish of the night. Rich, spicy, creamy, hearty…it was almost good enough to make me become a vegetarian!

Murg Makhanphal Kebab-Extremely moist, with that fragrant garam masala, fresh cilantro and spicy hit of ginger. Sweet, salty, sour, bitter. It just hit all the points on my tongue.

Don’t miss the raita. Smooth, cool, creamy with the fragrance of rose and the fruitiness of pomegranate seeds, it takes the intense fire out of the dishes and adds a mild component to an otherwise aggressively flavored meal.

At this point, our awesome server (who was both knowledgeable and friendly) brought out Chef Khanna

We also had the pleasure of meeting pastry chef Angie Lee, who was sunshine to Khanna’s moon. Bubbly and direct, she shared how thrilled she was about opening up people’s minds about Indian desserts. She noted that her desserts were Indian inspired, versus strictly Indian, and was so enthusiastic that she absolutely made us order dessert – the best I have had in NYC.

Passion Fruit Bombe with Katafai Nest and Coriander-Basil Seeds.

It was a bombe only in the explosion of flavor it delivered, because this sort of semifreddo was incredibly rich but so light it almost floated away. There was a smooth sort of shell around the mousse-like center – frozen but not firm. It was almost like liquid in suspended motion. Quite amazing, really. Incredibly creamy, but with the tartness of the passion fruit that kept it from being heavy or stodgy. The coriander-basil seeds were subtle bursts of earthiness that grounded the totally ethereal dessert and the kataifi added texture in the form of crunchy fried dough. This was everything that a good dessert is – sweet, fulfilling, rich but not heavy and well portioned. At first glance it seemed huge, but, sooner than not…the dish was cleaned.

As we enjoyed homemade fruit gelees and dark chocolates filled with intense pistachio ganache, I reflected upon the meal. It was certainly not cheap, but was far from what I consider expensive. It was not traditional, but there is no doubting that it was an Indian creation. The flavors were all ones I have had before, but they were produced in new combinations and with different techniques. It was what I was expecting and yet…how could I expect all of this? Junoon is a thoughtful, heartfelt restaurant that has a personal touch that escapes so many hip New York establishments. The food is refined but packed with the flavors that you know and love in Indian cooking. This may be home to the hottest chef in New York, but it is also home to one of the best chefs in New York.

And yes…okay…he is also really freakin hot.

Filed Under: Flatiron Tagged With: Fine Dining, indian, review

SD26 -The Only Gimmick is the Great Food

July 5, 2011 By fritosfg 2 Comments

When you head to SD26, you are probably expecting some things. After all, it is a high-class restaurant in the hip and dining -savvy Flatiron neighborhood. It is run by legendary restaurateur Tony May, former of The Rainbow Room, and his glamorous, food-passionate daughter Marisa. It has to keep up with the Joneses of Duo and ABC Kitchen. It, quite frankly, better have some good gimmicks.

Like a self-service wine machine where you pay with pre-loaded cards. This way, you can try a few ounces of a wine for a few dollars before deciding if you want to order a whole bottle at dinner.

Like luxurious private dining rooms with pop-art decorating the walls.

Like a happening bar scene with beautiful people sipping on wines…

that they chose from an ipad. That’s right, this restaurant has an ipad.

The restaurant is officially cooler than me.

But, a table right in the kitchen where you can eat while watching the kitchen action?

Where you are so close to the chefs that you can almost touch them?

This is a dream for anyone who watches the Food Network or the Cooking Channel – it is like being in the middle of Iron Chef, without having to judge.

You can just stuff yourself silly.

The bountiful bread basket is filled with foccacia, walnut bread, white bread and

This bread, which is made in a special machine imported from Italy. The inside is hollow and the taste is like a very mild sourdough, with a crusty exterior and a stretchy interior with large hole structure and a very mild tang.

Gimmick? Perhaps. But a damn tasty one.

Toasts with Lardo and Anchovies.

Crisp but not hard soldiers of crustless bread topped with melting slices of porky, fatty lardo and filets of salty, barely fishy anchovy. These high quality filets tasted more like Worcestershire sauce than traditional anchovies. They were just vaguely fishy, in a way that elevated the meat and the bread.

It was a velvety, indulgent bite that instantly made me regret that I didn’t grab two before they all disappeared.

Stupid manners…they screw me every time.

Chilled Tomato Soup with Burrata and Celery Sprouts.

This soup was a game changer. It was the first time I realized that this might be a REALLY serious restaurant. The soup was sweet and lightly acidic, but also deeply earthy, the way that mushrooms or goat’s cheese is earthy. It tasted like…the outside. It smelled a bit like sun warmed grass. It tasted like tomatoes. It was almost shocking HOW tomatoey it tasted, since most tomato preparations focus on the brighter tastes of the tomato. The celery brought a light and herbal note to the soup, and the burrata enriched the soup with it’s milky, fatty, mild taste. This was a refreshing and deceptively complex soup. Highly recommended.

”Uovo” – Raviolo filled with soft egg yolk and served with truffled butter. This.Was. AMAZING! As rich and over-the-top as you might imagine. Tender but not mushy pasta was egg enriched, and housed a soft egg yolk that spilled out as soon as the raviolo was cut open, mixing with the truffled butter. The combination of melty yolk, heady truffle and fatty butter was unbeatable. Not salty or spicy, this was all about texture and flavor of the raw ingredients. Soft, rich, deep and decadent.

But not too decadent for me to eat it entirely.

Zeppola di Baccala – Salt Cod Fritters with Apples and Scallions Agrodolce. This was probably my least favorite dish of the night, though through no fault of it’s own. The cod was crispy outside and tender within, the agrodolce was a snappy, zesty counterpart to the sweet apple. It was a well made dish.

But after that raviolo…well, anything short of peace in the Middle East would have been a disappointment.

Carnaroli risotto with periwinkles. This really brought the meal back to life for me. This risotto was less creamy and more light than other risottos than I have had. The grains of rice stayed individual, with a tiny bit of bite. The periwinkles were somewhere between a cockle and escargot – toothsome with a tiny bit of snap and a deep seafood taste. A few went a long way to infuse the dish with that rather funky taste that great seafood sometimes has – it tastes deep but not muddy. Just substantial and incredibly ”of the sea.” The olive oil used was light and fruity, balancing the starchy and saline tastes well. An excellent dish.

Farro Spaghetti with Spring Vegetables Zucchini Flowers and Basil Sauce. These people and their vegetables…they do stuff that could make me be a vegetarian! This pasta was very hearty and wheaty. It was thick and worked so well with the sweet, juicy peas and delicate zucchini blossoms, more papery, spongy texture than taste. The flowers were especially good at sopping up the herbal basil sauce, sharp with salt but not pungent with garlic. It was thick and floral, but the flavor complimented the delicate vegetables and let them and the pasta be the star. It was a well thought out and thoroughly satisfying dish.

Olive Oil Poached Cod in Dry Martini Sauce with Heirloom Carrots and Spring Onions. This is Chef Matteo Bergamini’s favorite dish that he has created for the menu, and it says a lot about his food philosophy. Good ingredients make for good food, and simple can be best. The vermouth’s dryness combines with butter to make a smooth but slightly dry (in the way that wine can be dry) sauce that cut through the fish’s naturally velvety texture and buttery, rich taste. The carrots, sweet but hearty were cooked al dente, and the onions were almost sugary sweet. It was such a simple meal dish, but so…perfect. It was comforting but multi-layered, with different textures and flavors making it interesting and solely his. I could eat this again and again without getting bored.

Pan Seared Squab with braised Castellucio Lentils, Grapes and Fried Sage. I have never had squab, and was expecting the delicate, juicy taste of quail. What I got was something that had the heartiness of beef, the texture of duck and the woodsy, primal, almost wild taste of boar. It was right up my alley. If you like these descriptions, you will just love squab. It is truly unlike any other protein I have ever had. Incredibly meaty, a little funky, totally hearty and satisfying. Seasoned simply and served with tiny lentils, redolent with onions and sweet grapes.

Perfectly acceptable to gnaw on the bones at the table.

Chocolate Hazelnut Dome with Candied Orange Zest and Orange Sorbet. This was a Nutella lover’s dream. Thick, dark chocolate ganache covered layers of sweet milk chocolate mousse studded with bits of crunchy hazelnuts. The sorbet added a tart, bright layer to the flavors, and it was a rich and decadent way to end the meal.

It’s really difficult to put into words how fantastic this meal was. It wasn’t just the delicious, often unexpected food. It wasn’t just the fascinating experience of watching the chefs cook mere feet away from us. It wasn’t just that Tony and Marisa May made the rounds to each and every table in the restaurant -not just the press table, but each and every restaurant-to make sure that everyone was enjoying their evenings. It wasn’t even just that egg and truffle raviolo…though that would have done the job just fine.

It was the sum of all of these things. It was feeling that you were in someone’s home even though you were in an elegant restaurant. It was certainly the delicious food.

And it was the fact that, even with all the gimmicks, this restaurant is the real deal.

*Note: My meal was paid for by the restaurant. I was not paid or required to write a review, and my opinions are my own and, I feel, impartial.*

Filed Under: Flatiron Tagged With: Fine Dining, Italian, review

Pranna and Community Food and Juice: A Tale of Two Restaurants

May 27, 2011 By fritosfg 2 Comments

As much as I hate to admit it, I am occasionally swayed to like or dislike restaurant for reasons other than its food. The service, the decor and most importantly, the PRICE all way in on how much I enjoy a dining experience. Now, this is not to say that I am cheap – no siree, not at all! I can roll with the best of them! But when I feel like my money has been taken without getting a worthy product or experience in return…well, I’m sure you get the picture.
Of course, on the other hand, if I feel like I have paid a price and gotten a wonderful experience, even if the food wasn’t the greatest, I am okay with that too! 2 recent dining excursions are perfect examples of my feelings:

Community Food and Juice is a restaurant that I would have bet MONEY I was going to love. Locally grown and produced food. Seasonal menu. Low prices, considering the menu options AND they served booze?
This place had me written all over it!

There was a hopping bar area and the restaurant itself was spacious, casual and modern..

Sweet Potato Fries. Okay, these were pretty fantastic. Thick cut steak fries, liberally salted and sprinkled with parsley, these perfectly walked the line between sweet and savory. Dipped in the restaurant’s homemade ketchup, they were crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside and had that sugary taste that makes sweet potatoes gifts from the heavens. These were delish and totally worth the price.

Green Goddess Salad with Boston and Bibb lettuce, Spinach, Cremini Mushrooms, Cucumbers, Chives, Sourdough Croutons, Creamy Basil-Dill Dressing. This salad sounded RIGHT up my alley. And it was…soooo not up any alley of mine. The vegetables were fresh, but that was about all I could say. The mushrooms were raw, and it was my fault for not asking how they were served. I am just NOT a fan of raw mushrooms, and whereas I had envisioned a pile of umami-licious sauteed mushrooms gently wilting the crisp lettuces, that was not what I got. I got a plate of crudites. With an insipid dressing that tasted only vaguely of dill and not at all of basil. The croutons were great – clearly just toasted and crunchy with a bit of give in the middle. But the salad as a whole…was bleh.

Which is kind of what I could say for the food I tried here. It was okay, but not great. And all of a sudden,t he prices that seemed so reasonable when read the menu, seemed exorbitantly high. Paired with service that was a bit haphazard, this was just NOT the meal that I wanted it to be.

I felt a little cheated.

On the other end of the spectrum, we have Pranna. I went here for a media preview, and from the moment I walked into the swanky nightclub-cum-restaurant I felt a little out of place. The cuisine is South Asian inspired fusion, and there is a $28 brunch menu that includes 3 drinks (Screwdriver, Bellini, Mimosa or Bloody Mary – feel free to mix and match) and an entree before a DJ comes in at 2 pm and the whole place turns into a massive party

I’m, like, REALLY not cool enough to come here.

The spacious lobby and bar area gave way to a light filled room with a streamlined look and whimsical chandeliers.

And the food was just what I hoped it would be: Good. Well scrambled eggs, crispy bacon, fresh greens tossed in a peppery, vinegary dressing. And, oh yeah – the best breakfast potatoes I have had in Manhattan. Creamy and soft potatoes mixed with tender cauliflower, tangy tomatoes, sweet caramelized onions and a hit of pungent curry powder for an unexpectedly delicious side dish. This was so flavorful and surprising that it really made me consider Pranna’s chef in a different light. I did order a kind of boring dish, and he managed to make it interesting and delicious. Score one for him.

Still, the service was quite slow, and the food was not worth $30…but oh wait.

The 3 Drinks.

Champagne served in WINE glasses – easily 3X the pour of any other boozy brunch in town. when I thought that my Bellini was too fruity, the cocktail waitress could not have been more apologetic and poured me a fresh one with only a slight bit of sweet peach puree in a glass that was mostly minerally, fizzy, tipsy-inducing champagne. My glass was never allowed to go empty, and the champagne they used was delicious – definitely not the cheap crapola that I’m sure I would buy if making Bellinis for myself.

Was this the best meal I have ever had? No. The service was slow and I would have liked a bread basket at the start of the meal. But was it worth the money? YES!

And that’s the moral of the story here. One interesting side dish and a few included drinks makes me overlook some less than favorable aspects. A few forgettable dishes and some overpriced veggies make me forget the delicious sweet potato fries and excellent atmosphere.

What sways you about a restaurant other than its food?

Filed Under: Flatiron