David Burke has a new baby in town…that he gave up for adoption.
Let me explain:
His new restaurant, Fabrick, is part of the David Burke group. It has his name attached to it. It draws inspiration from him. But he isn’t in the kitchen - not now, not ever.
So…how does the fare fare?
Yes, I love dad jokes. Get used to it.
The restaurant, located in the garment district’s hottest new neighbor, the Archer hotel, is all industrial chic with pops of color. It’s casual and airy, perfect for a quick lunch in between shopping or a first date afer work. The high tables even have actual chairs with backs, which I totally appreciate. Though the menu descriptions aren’t online yet, go for the blackberry lime rickey. It’s tart and refreshing, mixed with a good kick of vodka and a floater of prosecco. Smoked salmon pizza
Yes, it’s done all over the place and has been since 1989, but who cares? This one is excellent and even a little more unique than I was expecting. First of all, the dough is served warm, like a pizza, so the thinly cut pastrami cured salmon melts into the bread. Second, it has pickled ramps for an unexpectedly garlicky pickled element. The horseradish cream picks up the spicy coriander and pepper rub on the salmon and the final sprinkling of sweet pea shoots finishes the pizza nicely.
Boy, is this good! Sure, I make it, but when I make it, it doesn’t come on a cute little clothesline. Nor does it come with house pickled vegetables to add some lightness to the dish and cur through the fat and sugar. That fat and sugar is good though…sticky, crispy, meaty, and oh so sweet. A winner in my book.
Good, but not revolutionary. The thick pasta is cooked until it’s JUST past al dente, so it’s a little mushier than I enjoy, but still tasty. A chili-infused tomato sauce that is more bright and sweet than truly spicy, topped with a generous portion of buttery lobster claw meat. It’s good…not amazing.
Fabulous! This would be welcome at a steakhouse, let alone at a non-meat-specialty restaurant. The steak is charred outside and tender within. It has a beefy flavor, with a bit more chew than filet mignon but the hearty, meaty flavor really compensates for that. This is delicious with the garlicky, salty, verdant chimichurri sauce and the sautéed veggies alongside. I will absolutely get this when I return.
Peach melba doughnuts
Oh Zac Young, how you make my heart melt. You are cute, you are a celerity, and you make DAMNED GREAT doughnuts! These are unbelievable. They come in a tin and then are unearthed like pineapple upside down cake. Then, a bow of creme fraiche is mixed with they syrupy, juicy peach topping so you can tempter the fluffy, bready, yeasty doughnuts with some tangy, fragrant, vanilla scented creme fraiche. This is an adult doughnut – it’s sweet and fruity but the doughnut isles isn’t too sweet – that’s why the peaches and the creme fraiche shine so brightly.
This place is a GREAT addition to the garment district. It’s not quite destination worthy, but in a few more months afer it gets is sea legs, it may bet there. The food is delicious, the prices are upscale but fair, and the service is great. I would come here any time.
Chef Burke, they done ya proud.
Disclaimer: This was a press meal. I was not required to write about my experiences, and my opinions are my own and unbiased.