TriBeCa

With a Name Like Bubby’s, It Has to be Good

March 12, 2013 By fritosfg 1 Comment

When you walk into a restaurant called Bubby’s, with a tall display case of pies and cakes, homemade jam on every table, and cute servers in hipster jeans and tortoiseshell glasses, you know that the food is gonna be ironic and retro.

What you might not know is that it’s also gonna be really, really tasty.

Bubby’s is a 24 hour restaurant in Tribeca that’s part diner, part locavore scene, part after-hours coffeehouse. They offer midnight brunch, an awesome kids menu, and a full cocktail list. This is the ideal neighborhood restaurant for families or groups of friends. It’s delicious but not fancy and cool but not pretentious.

Roasted sunchoke salad

This daily special was awesome. Sunchokes are like a cross between potatoes and artichokes – when roasted, they become tender with crispy brown outsides and a distinctly grassy taste. Here, they are served with shaved Parmesan cheese and arugula dressed in a bright, acidic dressing. The sunchokes soak up the dressing and next to the salty cheese and bitter arugula, make for a really interesting and satisfying salad.

Carrot and ginger soup

Not what I was expecting, but tasty nonetheless. Usually carrot ginger soup is creamy and rich, with a strong taste of coconut milk or cream and a slight warmth from the ginger. Here, it is thin with some strings of carrot pulp and a big wham POW of ginger flavor – that stuff knocks you off your feet. The soup is incredibly bright and light, with a rich vegetable stock anchoring it. Though I don’t love the pulp, the taste of the sweet carrots and that fiery ginger is warming and soothing; ideal for a wintry day.

Chickpea fries with harissa aioli

These. Are. GOOD. These falafel sticks are moist, dense, and flecked with fresh herbs and a heavy hit of pepper. They are creamy, crunchy, and altogether delicious. The harissa mayo is smoky and cool with just a touch of spice – not enough for real chiliheads like me, but still an ideal accompaniment. These are a must order.

Peanut butter pie

As is this pie. Wow. A mountain of incredibly intense, sweet and salty peanut butter on a layer of gooey chocolate gananche and buttery graham crackers It’s dense, it’s in your face, it’s utterly simple. And duh, stupidly tasty. I ate it till I got a stomach ache. So worth it.

Bubby’s is a great neighborhood spot. It’s well priced with efficient service, fun atmosphere, and super tasty food.

With a name like Bubby’s, it has to be good.

Thanks for that line, Smucker’s.

Filed Under: review, TriBeCa Tagged With: American

Marc Forgione – Triumph in Tribeca

February 27, 2013 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

Well, I just discovered a new favorite restaurant.

Not everything was perfect. But enough little things came together to make the evening totally ideal.

Marc Forgione is a chef who I have admired on television,and his epyonymous restaurant has long been touted as excellent. The vibe is totally Tribeca – cool, with a hip soundtrack, rustic interior, and casual-elegant decor. Our tattooed server was sassy, knew the menu backwards and forwards, and was totally helpful in assisting us with making our own mini tasting menu entirely of appetizers.

*note – the only real issue I had the whole night was when I noticed the table next to us got a few extra dishes from the chef that we did not receive. They didn’t get the tasting menu, they didn’t seem to know the chef, it just seemed that these dishes were coming out willy nilly. I have been on the receiving end of this and it’s great. But when you are sitting next to the lucky table, looking forlornly at softly scrambled eggs topped with trout roe, you feel a little…uncool. And jealous. But this still wasn’t enough to mar the evening, just a point that I would like to make – it’s just not the greatest feeling.*

Potato rolls and caramelized onion butter

The rolls are soft and warm – a little cottony inside for my tastes, but a good vehicle for the butter. Butter of the heavens, that is. Caramelized onions are sweet and savory, making this taste like the world’s best chip dip. Crunchy flakes of sea salt complete the flavor, and as it melts on the bread, it creates the most multi-layered butter experience I have had…maybe ever? This butter alone is worth a trip to the restaurant.

Everything gougeres and apple cider pate de fruit

The gougeres were light as air, sprinkled with poppy and sesame seeds, onion, and garlic, before being filled with cream cheese. Warm and melty on the inside, they were the most elegant bagels on the planet. The gelee is soft and very apple-forward, cleansing the palate and preparing you for the meal ahead.

Kampachi Tartare, Avocado, Sechuan Buttons, Toasted Pinenuts, Saratoga Chips

The server said that this has been on the menu since the restaurant’s incarnation, and it’s not hard to see why. Just eat the dish as you are instructed:

First, put the Sichuan button in your mouth. Roll it around, let it’s oils release. You will soon feel a tingling sensation, like a cross between a Sichuan peppercorn and really strong mouthwash. Swallow the button. Then eat the long, soft slice of kampachi on the spoon. Feel the way that the tingling sensations adds a bite and sharpness to the mild fish. Then dig into the main event. the cubes of kampachi, as mild as hamachi with the fattiness of salmon colliding with the rich, buttery avocado in a citrusy sauce. The chips are tasty, but the real winner here is that Sichuan button. It adds an electricity to the dish that makes it totally unique, a standout in a city rife with fish tartares. This is a must order.

BBQ Baked Olde Salt Oysters with Asian spices

I have never had a oyster quite like this. Baked under a thick layer of breadcrumbs, it is extremely mild and only a little salty – the oyster has trouble shining through all the spicy, wheaty, smoky toppings. And yet…that’s okay. Here, the oyster is part of the dish, not the entire dish itself. The smoke from the bbq, the spice of the Sichuan peppercorns, the wonderfully moist topping…they all play a part in this dish. This again highlights Forgione’s creativity and the fact hat he is unafraid to make you look at familiar foods in different ways.

Foie Gras with 4 different Salts, Kumquat Marmalade, and Texas Toast

Delightful, if not the most inventive dish of the night. The terrine is soft and rich, spreading easily and melting into meaty butter on the warm, soft, eggy toast. The salts, especially the vanilla salt, are interesting with the foie, highlighting its different flavors, but really…the foie is great on it’s own. Or with the sweet, bright marmalade.

Or(I’ll say it again) alone. Foie is just awesome.

Wild Boar Cavatelli with Breadcrumbs and Herbed Mascarpone Cheese

Sorry I can’t remember a better description for this dish. It isn’t my fault. Once I took the first forkful of chewy cavatelli, crispy breadcrumbs, and salty, robust wild boar…I lost my mind. I went totally gaga for this dish. This is just what truly great pasta should be – al dente, rich but not greasy, with a meat that complements the sauce not competes with it. The creamy cheese melts into the crisp breadcrumbs, making a fabulous sauce for the dish. There is a bit of kick here too, reminiscent of spicy italian sausage. This was my favorite dish of the night, and probably of the month. I loved, loved, LOVED this – it isn’t too gamey or too bland or too garlicky. It’s just perfect.

I didn’t even get to take a picture of the banana pecan pie bread pudding – crumbly and sugary and eggy and fabulous. That’s cause we snarfed it down to fast. This whole meal was very snarfable, and though not cheap, totally fairly priced. It’s great for a date night that is hip instead of romantic or a solo meal at the bar.

Marc Forgione is the ideal of what a restaurant should be – not everything needs to be uber high-end, but the entire menu should be interesting, well priced, and most importantly, delicious.

Filed Under: review, TriBeCa Tagged With: American, Fine Dining

NYC Wine and Food Fest – Modern Jewish Food and Wine with Josh Wesson and Kutsher’s

October 16, 2012 By fritosfg 1 Comment

This weekend, the New York Wine and Food Festival hit NYC and it was a juggernaut of food, drinks, and general gluttony.

Of course, I had to partake in a few events. Gluttony should be my middle name.

The first event that I attended was Jewish Food and Wine pairing with the team from Kutsher’s and Josh Wesson.

Lesson #1: If you come across Josh Wesson in the future, hug him. Kiss him. Buy him a house. At the very least, take one of his classes or wine seminars. He is, hands down, the best, most knowledgeable most down to earth, most interesting wine person I have ever had the pleasure of learning from. He made the hour class simply fly by, was gracious with criticism, and modest with praise. He loves to eat, loves to drink, and clearly loves his job. If It sounds like I have a crush, I do.

Marry me, Josh Wesson.

Lesson #2: If you go to a seminar on Jewish food, the average age in the room will be 107. The other people will vacillate between overenthusiastic and caustically disapproving of the food. And there will be many jokes about who has the best looking grandson.

The event paired wines that Wesson chose with food from Kutsher’s, an upscale Jewish home cooking restaurant in Tribeca. How could Jewish food be upscale? And how could it pair with anything except Manischevitz? Prepare to have your mind blown…

Chopped Liver on Brioche and Sweet Smoked Salmon with Horseradish Cream Cheese

These bites were the first two of the day, and the best of the day. The chopped liver, made with liver soaked in milk then gently pureed with eggs, onions, and topped with crispy chicken fat (gribenes). The liver is very mild and sweet, creamy against the crisp skin and the crunchy brioche croutons. Paired with a nutty Sherry, this is a satisfying little bite. The salmon was at least as good, if not better. Kutsher’s wants this to be reminiscent of bacon, and it really is! Sweet, salty, and smoky, it pairs soft, fatty salmon with enough spices to quell its overtly fishy flavor. The fresh horseradish cream cut right through the fat and spice, and the result is something both decadent and upscale. Served with a none-too-sweet moscato, the delicate bubbles provide another respite from the luxuriously fat of the salmon.

Pickled Herring

You either love this stuff or you hate it. I love it. It is salty, tangy, and really tastes “of the sea.” The herring here comes from overseas, then is cured in house with sugar and salt, giving it a milder, sweeter taste than some. It is tender, served with tangy pickled onions and a dash of creme fraiche to cut through the fish’s strong taste. The effervescent vino verde served here was bright and light, picking up on the tangy notes of the bite.

Duck Pastrami with House Made Mustard and Rye Bread

Don’t look for the traditionally garlicky, peppery pastrami here. Look for a more herbal, coriander infused pastrami here. Lightly gamy and very tender, with a melting layer of fat. The rye bread, coarse and sour, cradles some of the best mustard I have had in recent memory. Spicy, sour, and extremely fragrant. It was delightful – a must have. Pastrami was originally a way to preserve poultry, and this showcases how well the smoky, hearty flavor of the duck works with the overtly flavorful pastrami spices.

The last bite was flanken, or Jewish short Rrbs. Sweet and spicy, like Jewish BBQ, it was served on a creamy square of polenta. The red wine served with it just proves that I do, indeed, hate red wine. It also proved that the flanken is so tender and crave-worthy that even the red wine couldn’t diminish my love of the dish.

This meal was fantastic. It proved that a light, sparkling moscato works well with my favorite lox and that a slightly more acidic white wine works well with stronger fish. It showed me that I don’t like red wine, but I love how well sherry pairs with rich organ meats. It showed me how Jewish food doesn’t have to be the same old salty pot roast I have eaten at so many Passover dinners.

It showed me how excited I am to see my culture evolving in this delicious way.

And, of course, it introduced me to Josh Wesson, my ultimate crush.

Filed Under: review, TriBeCa

3 Hot Cocktail and Wine Bars in NYC

March 22, 2012 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

It’s about that time again, where I take off my eating pants and put on my drinking hat. Time for a round up of the most delicious cocktails I have had in recent memory!

PDT

This is one of the coolest bars I have ever frequented. Hidden inside a divey hot dog shack, you go into an old telephone booth, pick up the receiver, and give your name (reservations are a must – call at 3 pm the day you want to go). Then, the back of the telephone booth will open and you will be led into a small, elegant space where a James Beard nominated cocktail program awaits you. Everything from a bourbon-bacon fat cocktail to a peanut butter and celery concoction to the cocktail in the photo above, with the flavor of candied apples and rum, is complex and unexpected. The price is steep, but the payoff is excellent. As an added bonus, you can get hot dogs and tator tots designed by chefs like David Chang and Daniel Humm – really Haute Junk Food. This is a destination cocktail bar that is sure to impress.

Glass of Fino Sherry, Terroir Tribeca

This wine bar is known not only for its delightful small plates (anything fried is a good bet) and excellent by the glass wine selection, but for its very reasonable happy hour. So reasonable, in fact, that if you get there before 6 pm, your glass of sherry is FREE! This is a wonderful introduction to sherry, a potent fortified wine. This is much less sweet than I expected, with a strongly nutty aroma that was perfect with a wedge of manchego cheese. One small glass of this and you may, as I did, find yourself hooked! And hey, the price is right!

NYC and the Orient at Slightly Oliver

This cocktail bar can’t possibly be on the Upper West Side. Except that…it is. Large, decorated like an eccentric English library, and with a collection of delicious craft cocktails, this place is so swanky that it seems more like the East Village than neighbors with Barney Greengrass. This drink, with Thai Basil infused Gin, Yellow Tomato Water, Reduction of Tangerine and Peppercorn, and Habanero Bitters speaks well to that point. Light, herbal, with a slight kick from the bitters and a note of sweetness from the Tangerine, it is like a subtle bloody mary – the best one I have had in NYC. If you like Bloody Marys, get this. If you don’t, there is a cocktail menu filled with expertly crafted libations, one of which is sure to tickle your fancy.

And if you don’t drink, sorry for this post…and really sorry that you don’t drink.

Filed Under: East Village, NYC, TriBeCa, Upper West Side Tagged With: bar, review

Trufflepalooza 2011

October 26, 2011 By fritosfg 5 Comments

I don’t often write about the same restaurant twice – too many places to cover!

But, every now and then, there is something so special and unique that it merits a second visit.

That is the case with Locanda Verde’s Trufflepalooza.

Just like last year, 3 courses of white truffle dishes for $50.

Just like last year…unbelievable

Sheep’s Milk Ricotta

Each table pillowy slices of house-baked foccacia, but the ones in the know all order the sheep’s milk ricotta. This was as delicious as ever – thick, creamy cheese with the texture of ricotta but with the tang and grassiness of a great Pecorino. Served with slightly floral honey and some fresh herbs, it was a multi-layered dish that was so simple but so satisfying.

Feather Ridge Far, Poached Egg with Frisee, Polenta, Porcinis and White Truffles

What is it about eggs and truffles? Is it the combination of earthy upon earthy? The hit of umami and fatty? The warmth of the eggs making the truffle’s scent multiply and intensify? Whatever it is, combining eggs and truffles are my favorite way to have either ingredient, and this satisfied my craving. The egg was perfectly poached, with runny yolk that mixed with the lightly dressed frisee and the cheesy, slightly salty polenta. The porcini mushrooms were so deep that they sort of took focus from the truffles – in a good way. They were so meaty and rich that they made the truffles seem lighter and more fragrant. Truffles are usually so hearty that it was a pleasure to taste their more subtle flavors.

Fonduta Ravioli with Water Chestnuts, Leeks and Truffles

The ravioli was just delicious. The noodles, while not thick, had a good chew and smooth texture. The filing inside was incredibly mild and buttery, allowing the focus to be on the sweet water chestnuts, the onion-y leeks and those delicate white truffles. The taste here was heady and rich, with each bite of truffle invading my tongue, nose and even my head as I felt the taste and aroma travel up and around my whole skull. It was really that intense and special.

Duck Agnoletti with Artichokes Sugo, Parmigiano Regianno and Truffles

The best pasta I have had since Ai Fiori. Small parcels of pasta were filled with moist, incredibly duck-y meat – rich, fatty, slightly gamey. Tempered by a light, slightly tangy artichoke sauce with balsamic vinegar, it was rich but not heavy or cloying. Hunks of vegetal artichoke were light in comparison, and a welcome textural component. The truffles interacted so well with the duck, becoming woodsy and deep next to the duck. I can’t say enough about this dish, except that I could eat it every night with pleasure.

Truffle Honey Cake with Whipped Ricotta and Chamomile Granita

The perfect way to end the meal. Moist, spicy cake not unlike Jewish Honey cake. The truffle taste came through in the honey underneath the cake, adding a slightly savory edge to the sweet cake, along with the candied hazelnuts served alongside. The creamy ricotta topped with the herbal granita lent a cool, refreshing component to the dish. Sweet, savory, moist and warm. Could there be anything wrong with that?

There was nothing wrong with any part of this meal. We had a particularly wonderful server, Andrew, who was attentive, informative and went out of his way to tell us which dishes had nuts in them (one member of our party has a tree nut allergy). The price can’t be beat and neither can the food. These reservations always sell out quickly, so keep your ear to the ground -there is apparently another Trufflepaolooza with black truffles coming this January.

I’ll be waiting by my phone.

Filed Under: TriBeCa Tagged With: Italian, review, Tribeca

White and Church

October 14, 2011 By fritosfg 4 Comments

I have said before how I don’t often dine out for Italian food. But when I was invited to a press dinner for White and Church, how could I say no? It’s a free meal. And if it wasn’t great, I simply wouldn’t write about it.

Well, I’m writing about it, so…spoiler alert.

The restaurant, which used to be molecular gastronomically focused Il Matto, morphed into the more conventional White and Church after a rash of varying reviews. Some people loved the food, some people hated it. What it was especially famous for was its dizzyingly long cocktail list, including a section filled with cocktails made with insects.

That insect cocktail collection is still there, along with a more relaxed, traditional interior and a large projector playing Fellini movies.

Breakfast Martini – Grey Goose Poire, served with Pear, Black Pepper and Parmesan
The vodka was smooth, with a slight kick at the end that was echoed in the black pepper. The pear provided fruitiness that amplified the sweet, crisp taste of the vodka, and the Parmesan cheese added a salty, savory kick to the martini. This was so simple but so well rounded. I will absolutely be making this at home.

Pecorino Creme Brulee
This was a holdover from the nouveau menu of Il Matto, and was a delicious dish that is so simple, I can’t believe I hadn’t had it before. A sugary, perfectly caramelized top shattered into smooth, lush custard that was exceedingly sharp but not too salty. The mouthful was creamy and crispy, tangy and sweet. It was not exactly savory nor sugary. It was so tantalizing I ended up scooping out the dregs with the crust of the very delicious sourdough bread.

Avocado Salad with Caramalized Cauliflower, Sudnried Tomatoes and Mozzerella
Ignore any other iteration of avocado salad you have ever had. This is the only avocado salad you will ever have after you taste it. Because all others pale in comparison to the point of disappearing altogether. The cauliflower was crispy on the outside and creamy like potatoes on the inside. It was infused with spices that made it a a little sweet and tangy, in contrast to the mild mozzarella, the salty sundried tomatoes and the buttery avocado. There were also a few large truffle slices on the bottom of the dish, which added a heartiness to the dish, making the cauliflower more substantial and the mozzarella milkier. I would never put these ingredients together and perhaps I haven’t well described it. But the symphony of flavors and textures was out of this world and the surprise standout of the meal.

Fried Polenta and Parmesan Custard
More melted cheese? Well…okay! Smooth, creamy cheese that was more salty than it was sharp, with a mellow, smooth taste. The fried polenta were like the best hash browns ever, but instead of creamy potatoes, toothsome, earthy cornmeal inside.

Fried Gorgonzola with Pears over Balsamic Glaze
This restaurant fries lie a champ. This time, a small fried nugget arrived at the table. When I broke into it, a melty, pungent river of Gorgonzola cheese flowed out, joining crunchy pears and sweet balsamic vinegar. The result was a dish that was sugary, salty, animal and vegetable. It was a tiny portion, but I could have eaten 4 or 5 of these croquettes, letting the blue veins of the Gorgonzola invade my nose and mouth, changing as it mixed with the balsamic and the pears.

Steak with Mushrooms and Veal Jus
Another example of something so simple that I should be eating it more. The flavor of steak is so well amplified by the grassy, light taste of veal. Here, it was in a rich glace, ripe with meaty, umami flavors. The meat itself was cooked perfectly, with a bit of chew and a robust taste. The mushrooms, tender and earthy, added another hit of umami to the dish, making it a full, deep, rounded dish. Though this is not a steaknouse, I have rarely had better steak.

Eggplant Napoleon
I know, I know. Napoleon made with eggplant? Apparently, it’s a traditional Sicilian dessert, and, really…not too bad! The eggplant barely had a taste and its soft texture melded well with the vanilla scented cream and rich chocolate sauce. Napoleons are not may favorite dessert in general, being quite sweet and heavy, but as far as they go, this was a good, if not outstanding version.
That said…most of the food here was absolutely outstanding! From the complex cocktail to the best avocado salad ever to a piece of steak that still has me drooling, White and Church has a bright future ahead of it. There is a happy hour and an extensive menu and…well, food that I can’t make at home.
I guess I do dine out for Italian food more than I had thought!
*Note: My meal was paid for by the restaurant. I was not paid or required to write a review, and my opinions are my own and, I feel, impartial.*

Filed Under: TriBeCa Tagged With: Italian, review

Thalassa – It’s All Greek to Me

March 8, 2011 By fritosfg 4 Comments

I went to dinner at Thalassa, recently. It is an upscale Greek seafood restaurant that incorporates some of my favorite things:

1)Fresh fish

2)Excellent Staff

3)HUGE portions

Do you feel a photo essay coming on?

If you didn’t understand that that was a rhetorical question…well, I just don’t know how to help you.

Nothing makes me hungrier than a gorgeous display of fresh fish…or the smell of Krispy Kreme donuts.

Another story for another time.

Olive oil with capers, fresh and juicy olives, and fava bean-feta dill tip. This dip put hummus to SHAME. Creamy, salty, fragrant with dill and hearty with beans…it was just to DIE for.

House baked focaccia. Simply outstanding. Some might call it greasy, but let me tell you – it didn’t taste that way. It tasted rich, flavorful and just perfect. I mean, I don’t mind a little extra fat. Remember the lardo love affair?

Olive bread that was not baked in house. Not as good as the foccacia – lacked that fresh-baked pliant texture and perfectly salty crunch.

Crabcake amuse bouche. All crab, no filler. With a lemon remoulade, it was just a burst of briny, sweet freshness. Definitely whetted the appetite.

Maine Diver Scallops wrapped in kataifi with sheep’s milk butter and Kalamata balsamic reduction.

A bit rich, even for me. The sheep’s milk butter was WAY richer and more creamy than cow’s milk butter – now, usually this is a GOOD thing. But it sank into the kataifi (like shredded phyllo dough) and made it soggy and a bit tough. It tasted cloying with those fatty, rich, sweet scallops…and the scallops were a little soft for my taste. I prefer a crispy sear on my scallops, and this was more of a velvety taste. I did love the raw scallions and tomatoes surrounding the dish, and the sweet, tangy balsamic was a great addition to the dish.

Greek salad. So simple but so delicious. PEELED tomatoes. Have I told you how much I hate tomato peels? Wretched, vile things that have no taste and the weirdest texture…I just hate them. Peeled tomatoes are something I rarely do for myself, and it was a total luxury to have them peeled for me. That perfectly sharp feta with those sweet tomatoes, biting onions and crunchy peppers, with a simple olive oil and vinegar dressing…perfection.

Head on African Shrimp. Thalassa has a HUGE menu of fresh seafood, delivered a few times a week. These were perfect – lemony, tender as lobster but with that unmistakable sweet-salty taste of shrimp. I just love to gnaw on those heads-love the creamy, rich, slightly funky taste of the brains.

And did I mention that they were humongous? The sauteed greens on the side were a perfect accompaniment.

Any time they make ice cream in house, you should get it.

That was my wisdom for the day.

Especially baklava ice cream. Creamy vanilla ice cream with crunchy bits of honey soaked and nutty baklava. Yes. Oh yes.

A small plate of that delicious baklava and some house made dark chocolates finished off the evening well.

This is a wonderful place for fresh, well prepared seafood. Simple, delicious, and although it is not cheap, it is fairly priced.

The service was great, the ambiance was lovely and serene and the food was delightful.

And in that case…all Greek is all right by me!

*Note: My meal was paid for by the restaurant. I was not paid or required to write a review, and my opinions are my own and, I feel, impartial.*

Filed Under: TriBeCa Tagged With: greek, seafood

Dylan Prime or Dylan Fine?

December 20, 2010 By fritosfg 5 Comments

Dylan Prime is touted as a sleek, sexy restaurant with new twists on classic steakhouse favorites. I hit the upscale, dark, and more trendy than formal dining space to check out the fare. While nothing was bad, not everything was great. We are going to break this review down into what was just Dylan Fine, and what was really Dylan Prime.

First…the so-so news:

The Bread.

Unheated Hawaiian rolls. Cottony, cold, ordinary King’s Hawaiian Bread that I buy in the grocery store all the time. Now, I like King’s Hawaiian Bread as much as any other gal, but when I am paying beaucoup bucks in a nice restaurant, I want some house baked or at least locally sourced unique bread offering. Even if it were warm, it would have been an improvement. Later on, I noticed tables around us getting what looked like sourdough slices and pretzel rolls. Why did we get the short end of the carb stick? The butter, on the other hand was great-unsalted and soft.

Of course, that’s what she said.

French Onion Soup with Sherry & Gruyere .

Sherry & Gruyere Cheese

This was delicious, don’t get me wrong. It just fell a little flat. There were plenty of onions, but I don’t think that they had really cooked long enough. The onions should be almost approaching jam status, literally melting into one another in a sweet, molten heap as you break through the bubbling cheese and moistened bread. These onions were just a tad undercooked, which resulted in a soup that just lacked that certain umami POW of flavor. The cheese used was excellent and so was the bread, with a tender crumb but a crust that stood up to the liquid. This was not salty, which I LOVED, but if there had just been a bit more caramelization on the onions, it would have really brought this into “Prime” territory.

Baby Baked Potatoes with Roasted Garlic, Parmesan Cream Sauce, Bacon & Chives:

Like the onion soup, these were good but not GREAT. The idea was fantastic-crisply baked Yukon Gold potatoes smothered in a roasted garlic and Parmesan cream sauce, garnished with pancetta and fresh chives. But the execution just fell SLIGHTLY short. The potatoes tasted boiled, not baked. I really craved the contrast between the crunchy skin and the fluffy innards of the potato, and instead it was soft throughout. Also, the potatoes were left whole, so the Parmesan cream sauce couldn’t really sink into the potatoes while they were hot. That’s a shame, since the sauce was perfect-thick, creamy, salty, and savory with that sweet roasted garlic. It was so delicious with that perfectly fried pancetta and those fresh, slightly biting chives that I ended up eating the sauce and garnishes by the spoonful! If they could just get the skin a little crisper and sink that sauce into the potatoes, this dish would be “Prime” for sure. As it is, I am going to try to re-make this at home, since the concept is fab.

Now onto the excellent:

Mixed Baby Greens with Teardrop Tomatoes and Maytag Blue Cheese

Remember when you thought you had a great green salad? Erase that thought. Because THIS is what every standard salad should be. Tender mixed greens including sweeter and more bitter lettuces, jewel like baby tomatoes that were sweet and acidic at the same time, a light vinaigrette dressing, and the world’s MOST fantastic blue cheese (for a salad, anyway). The Maytag was truly wonderful-salty, funky, creamy; contrasting perfectly with the simplicity of the other ingredients. This was a standout in the meal and once again proves how stellar ingredients make for a stellar dish, no matter how simple.

Ancho Coriander Rubbed Hanger Steak.

I freakin LOVE Hanger Steak and do not eat it NEAR enough. In France, it is referred to as the “onglet”, and is often what you will get in a bistro when you order “steak frites”. It is not the most tender cut of meat, but it is one of the most flavorful. It is inexpensive, and when cooked properly, has more of a meaty taste than even a New York Strip (in my opinion…which of course is right). This was cooked PERFECTLY rare. It was lightly charred on the outside, warm and still red inside. It cut quite easily, and had the most rich, iron-y MEATY taste…this is not for people who think a well done hamburger is awesome. This is for meat lovers who want that true “beef” taste. The ancho-coriander rub was just lightly smokey, spicy, and fragrant, and went perfectly with…

Herb Bearnaise Sauce

Be still my heart. I mean, really…this sauce deserves it’s own part of this review. Bearnaise is a variant of hollandaise sauce that includes shallots, pepper, tarragon, and other spices. And, oh sweet mother of all that is holy…it is like mayo on CRACK! It is warm, creamy, peppery, fragrant, herbacious, lemony, and thick enough to coat a spoon. It is fantastic with everything from steamed broccoli to roasted cod to…yes…a flavorful and rare steak. Something about that meat with the egg based sauce is just such an indulgence in carnivorism. I ate the whole steak.

And drank the sauce

As in, I lifted the creamer to my mouth and tipped it in.

Don’t judge.

Creamed Spinach.

Perfection. Served steaming hot, with ample spinach taste, a little bite left to the leaves, a rich sauce that was creamy but not cloying, and a perfect foil to the steak. Because really..isn’t cream always a perfect foil to steak?

Filed Under: TriBeCa Tagged With: American, review

Trufflepalooza!!!

November 1, 2010 By fritosfg 1 Comment

Hehehehehehe! Remember the last time you had a meal so great it truly made you giggle from the pure memory of it? The perfect friends, the perfect price, the beyond perfect food? I remember mine. It was last week at Locanda Verde‘s annual one night only white truffle fest. I went with Lauren, Kate, and Marmie, and it was FAB! We couldn’t get reservations, so…Marmie and I got there at 5:30 to save seats at the bar and try to get a table in the “reserved for walk ins” section. By 5:45 the bar and table were filling UP and I was NERVOUS! Luckily, Lauren and Kate arrived soon after and we snagged one of the last tables. PHEW! Since I have already reviewed the restaurant’s decor and stuff here, let’s just move onto the good stuff, shall we?

Hehehehehe! I swear, I’d rather have the mushrooms that follow than the psychedelic ones that guy is on…i think so, anyway!

White truffle scented rosemary foccacia. Read my review of the foccacia here, and then add to that the husky, meaty taste of truffles with the sweet fatty texture of olive oil. There’s a reason there was already a bite taken out of this, okay? Its that it was great! Some might say too oily, but i would have to challenge them to a duel to the death.

Lauren, Kate, and marmie got the artichoke truffle soup. This was excellent. I have previously tasted artichoke and truffle soup at Guy Savoy in Las Vegas, and this soup, while less delicate, was easily as delicious in a different way. Hearty and creamy, this soup was rich and hearty and simultaneously verdent and fresh with the artichokes. The generous truffle shavings on top permeated the entire dish, the heat of the soup sending up the heavenly scent of the ‘shrooms. This was a hearty and delicious dish that really accented the truffles.

I, on the other hand, ordered the steak tartare Piedmontese. I have contrasting feelings on this. On one hand…it didn’t really compliment the truffles. A room temperature dish, the truffle shavings were cool and the steak did not have any other truffle influences, such as oil. so, here…the truffles were kind of tasteless. AAH!!! Even to type that seems an abomination, since I love truffles so much, but here…well, I could barely taste them.

BUT…

The steak tartare was INSANELY good!!! Sweet, tender beef mixed with sharp onions and topped with a creamy egg and a small piece of salty fried pancetta…this was an outstanding version of one of my favorite dishes of all times. Not too salty or saucy, as some preparations are, this steak tartare was all about that fabulous meat. Spread on the thickly sliced, charred bread, this course was fantastic. Was it all about the truffles? No. Was it delish? YES! So there are my thoughts on THAT.

Lauren got the Pappardelle with pork and chesnut Bolognese-and, of course, TRUFFLES! The green pasta was thick and coarse, the way homemade pasta should taste. It went especially well with the meaty bolognese-it was soooo porky and delightful! The chestnuts added an almost walnut-like nutty quality to the milk based ragu. The truffles were well placed here, giving depth to the pork and a delicate quality to the hearty dish? Is there a better pairing than pork with truffles?

Oh yeah-truffles with CHEESE! Marmie, Kate, and I got the Fonduta ravioli with truffles and this was simply ASTOUNDING!!! Meltingly thin layers of delicate pasta surrounding creamy, almost airy melted fontina cheese, all swimming in a buttery, lemon tinged sauce. And the truffles. Oh the truffles!!! They positively SANG in this dish!!! The pasta was so light and airy and the sauce was so delicate and buttery that it could be a little one note. But the truffles really brought a wholly different dimension to this dish. It gave the dish heft and grounded it. It made it deep and woodsy and made the lemon tarter and the fontina funkier (which is a WONDERFUL thing!) Kate, a confirmed cheese disliker loved this dish, and and Marmie, a cheese fiend loved it too. Clearly, this is dish transcended expectations and taste preferences. Inspired, well executed, and perfect in it’s flavor profiles. I licked the plate clean, what can I say?

For dessert, we got truffle honey ice cream with chocolate sauce and toffee bits. DUDE! This blew my socks off!!! The ice cream took on a totally new flavor than i thought truffles could have!!! Definitely not sweet, but i would say…light. Ethereal. Almost like an herb or something-it was still woodsy and earthy, but not at ALL savory or heavy. It just left you with this back of the palate flavor hit that was so unique and wonderfully…truffle-y! The chocolate sauce was not overpowering and the sweet toffee nuggets just accentuated the creamy, smooth texture and hauntingly beautiful taste of the truffles! I was shocked and amazed! Mushrooms for dessert?! Who wouldda thunk it?!

And the grand total for such an amazing meal was…$50 apiece. What a deal! Three courses of expertly cooked food with one of the most expensive ingredients on earth! The food was awesome, the service was great, and the company…well, when you are with three other gals who can eat their weight in exotic fungi, what more is there that you could want in the world? Not much, friends, not much…except a reservation for next year’s Trufflepalooza

Filed Under: TriBeCa Tagged With: Italian, Miscellaneous, review

Locanda Verde Brunch Review

October 17, 2010 By fritosfg Leave a Comment

What is it about brunch? So indulgent, so delicious, so decadent…so New York. That’s what it is for me. Well, that and the fact that going to brunch-unlike going for drinks at 11 pm- probably won’t result in any pictures of me hanging naked from chandeliers…not that that has ever happened…that i know of…

ANYWAY…

Grace and I both wanted to check out Locanda Verde. It is this restaurant that is run by Andrew Carmellini and Robert DeNiro…guess which one does the cooking It is in Tribeca on Greenwich Street, and was supposed to do a hell of a brunch!

Attached the the DeNiro run Greenwich Hotel, Locanda Verde is an Italian trattoria, featuring local and seasonal food cooked in a rustic style. It was crazy busy this Sunday, in a brick walled space that was simultaneously comforting and hip. It is a large room with lots of comfortable seating and a bar where you can read the paper while you indulge in your bloody mary

After we ordered from our totally on top of it server, we were served some bread. Now, you might read all about this meal on Grace’s blog, but you will not read about this bread. Oh, why? Um, because I ATE IT ALL! SHAMELESSLY! I had heard that Locanda Verde excelled at bakery items and boy do they! This rosemary dappled foccacia was topped with Parmesan and cornmeal for an irresistibly salty, crunchy top. The innards were as light and pillowy as a cloud, and the bread was moist without being flaky. No question…the cornmeal and Parmesan topping made it so outstanding. This was divoon. Poor Grace…she was just too slow…or polite…whatever THAT must be like

Literally 10 minutes after we ordered, our entrees came. Was it too fast? It seemed a little suspicious…and then we dug in…

That thing in the middle of the table? Sugar cinnamon donut. Donuts are my weakness. My nemesis, the Delilah to my Samson. I would rather have a truly great yeast-raised donut than world peace. And now you all know my evil, self serving nature What makes a great donut, you ask? Why,

-light texture

-warm to the touch

-sweet without being cloyingly so

-moist but not greasy

-a perfect breakfast OR dessert

As you can see…I am serious about donuts. I don’t screw around with Hostess. And Locanda didn’t screw around with this. It hit every single one of the points on my checklist. Totally beyond delectable. Sweet and spicy from the sugar and cinnamon. Insanely light texture, clearly just pulled from the fryer. Pulling apart in feathery tufts, this was somewhere between a donut and Panettone. I could have eaten twelve or thirteen.

In the background there, you see that Grace and I also shared lemon-blueberry ricotta pancakes with lemon curd and fresh berries. Though I am not a huge pancake fan, I must admit these were delightful. Light, creamy, not too sweet, and positively loaded with sweet berries and tart zest. The curd was a little bitter for my tastes, but that was okay. Because I sated myself with:

Sheep’s Milk Ricotta with truffle honey and burnt orange toast.

Imagine the creamiest, densest yogurt possible-thick, tart, creamy. Then add the luscious mouth feel cheese has. You still with me here? Throw onto that some freshly cracked black pepper and fresh thyme. Now add a thick pool of truffle infused honey. Sweet, viscous nectar tinged with the deep earthiness of that fabulous fungus. On the side-freshly charred sourdough toast rubbed with orange, so the bread has a citrusy, deeply toasted taste. Now spread the cheese on the bread.

Hear the angels start to sing.

Creamy, tart, rich, carby, charred, fresh, sweet, and spicy. The pepper with the honey, the truffles with the cheese, the orange toast with the thyme…this just worked. It was wildly fulfilling and delicious. So much so that I started spreading the cheese on my pancakes. So much so that I intend to re-create this at home. Yeah you will be getting another post on this. When I become obsessed, I really just go all out

At $35, this was a great meal. Not too cheap or too expensive. Excellent service. Busy atmosphere, but not too loud. It kinda just fit the bill. It is a neighborhood trattoria done to the highest level. For brunch, at least, Locanda Verde is a destination restaurant. And you are darn right in thinking I will be checking it out soon to make sure dinner is up to par

Filed Under: NYC, TriBeCa Tagged With: brunch, Italian, review