Another day, another chance to eat Mexican food, amirite?
When I was invited to come try the menu at Toloache Soho, complete with margarita pairing, I was like…OKAY!
And that’s it for the valley girl portion of the review, I promise!
The tasting menu was long and winding, so instead of featuring the (very few) misses, I’m going to focus on the hits!
Spicy guacamole (in the top right corner)
Maybe it isn’t the newest thing on the block but it might just be the best. The slow, smoky burn of chipotle with buttery avocado and salty cotija cheese is the ideal dip for freshly fried, almost saltless tortilla chips. The complimentary salsa is thick and smooth,with a fruity, very mild heat – perfect for those who are a little scared of spicy foods.
Crispy tostada topped with avocado pure, crabmeat, sea urchin, and Oaxacan peanut salsa.
My favorite bite of the night, no question. The sea urchin is a little on the oceanic side, but I love that – if you only like mild Santa Barbara uni, this isn’t for you. For me, the salty uni with the sweet crab and crunchy, savory peanut salsa is a dynamite starter. It’s maybe the best iteration of Mexican seafood that I have ever had. Of course, the tiny tuna ceviche taco you see ain’t so slouchy either!
Brisket taco with horseradish crema (lower lefthand corner)
Mm-mm good. Very tender, with a strong beefy taste – not too many spices here to take away form the pure, mineral-y taste of the beef. The horseradish crema is extremely mild, but enough to accentuate the beef’s texture and cut through the fat.
This is the stuff. This skirt steak is cooked perfectly – that’s not an exaggeration, it is textbook perfect. Charred on the outside with a pink, tender interior that is neither raw nor chewy – how do they do that so well? It’s marinated in something sweet that goes well with the best gratin I have had outside of France. It’s classically made – thin, tender potatoes in a creamy, cheesy sauce that is equal parts gooey cheese and delightful burnt edges. The mole is way too bitter and heavily spiced for my tastes – some mole, like this, tends to taste like tobacco to me – but the accompanying guacamole is delicious.
Roasted Pineapple Tres Leches Cake
Get this. Do not be swayed by the excellent churros nor the appealingly jiggly flan. Go straight for this – it’s pina colada in cake form. Intensely sweet pineapple, made even sweeter than usual because it is roasted, sits atop a cloud of whipped cream. The cake, soaked in heavy cream, milk, and sweetened condensed milk, breaks apart if you look at it the wrong way. It’s sweet, creamy, and rich.
That’s what she said.
Toloache excels at meats and most desserts. Stick to them and you will be pleased. Oh, and that uni tostada. And those chips are really swell…
What am I saying? You can’t go wrong here. It’s busy and trendy – perfect for a date or a night out with a best friend.
Oh, and why didn’t I mention the margaritas? Because I couldn’t choose just one to feature. Every single one was top notch. Fresh, potent, and all too drinkable.
And those margaritas are why Mexican food is ALWAYS a good idea.
Disclaimer: I was here for a press meal. My meal was covered by the restaurant. I was not required to write a review and my opinions are my own.